The Westerbeke installation of most GB (and copies) installation runs for/aft with service easy on all sides. Wifes company has installed a few and it's a great package. I do understand the OPs issue, gear driven raw water pump, facing aft, just ahead of the starter, all under the heat exchanger / exhaust manifold. This was just the wrong model gen set for it's installation orientation. Sadly our new friend, your in a pickle. I would invite your delivering sales and service location to service it for you. Also, send a letter to SeaRay and ask them how to service it. If this was a new purchase, you may have a voice. Keep in their hair and maybe another gen set model deal can be had. On The Other Hand;; This is why we do recommend a survey on even new boat deliverys. I can go on about not thinking about service issues but your already taking a beating on this and hind sight does suck. Good luck.
The electric pump is an interesting option. Thanks for the link. I was just at the boat and had a good look. There is no way the sea water pump can be serviced from underneath. The only option now is to move the unit. After some head scratching, Sea Ray technicians in FL have also suggested that moving the unit may be the only option. I have decided that a temporary support bar across the stringers would be needed, then it appears that the following needs to be done: Disconnect oil drain hose at 90 degree union and cap the fitting temporarily; Disconnect main ground cable; Disconnect 12VDC ground cable; Disconnect seawater hose; Disconnect exhaust cooling hose at siphon break; Disconnect starter positive lead; Loosen stbd fwd mounting bolt; Remove 3 remaining mounting boots; Swing genset forward onto support bar. Hopefully, this helps others with the same model or similar setup. If the procedure becomes too labour intensive, I will hard wire an electric pump as mhwhit1 did. I will know the answer in the spring. Thanks for everyone’s input.
Are you sure you need to do all of that? You should only need to move it 4" to get to the seawater pump.....I'll talk to my mechanic buddy as he just did the impeller on I think an identical Sea Ray a month ago as he mentioned he had to dismount the generator and this and that......I wasn't interested in hearing all of the specifics but I'll ask him. What's above the generator? Is it that little garage storage area?
I need to move it a bit more than 4 ". I would say 30 degrees or a little more. The engine end is to port. The fuel lines come in on the generator end. They can stay put as they are at the pivot. All of the lines, wires and hoses I mentionned need to be disconnected in order to move it even a little. It seems like a lot but really it's just twisting a wrench or two. The only messy part would be the oil drain hose. That needs to be capped after undoing the union. Above is the underside of the cockpit and only a few inches of space. Tricky still, will be having enough leverage to lift slightly as I pull forward without putting my back out. Its about 425 lbs or so. Still like to hear what the mechanic has to say though.
Save your back. Experience speaking now that my back is messed up from doing this stuff;;; Get some young skinny tech in there. Either to service the impeller or to pull the impeller and install an electric pump.
I do have some customers with a small March water pump fused and tied to the gen end. The smallest mag pumps from 400 to 500 gph. When the generator is running and making electricity, the pump only runs then. Take the impeller out and place the A C Pump low in the bilge, in line from the Gen strainer. I M me if you need more details on this. I have a home made generator sound box with forced blower air in / out that works the same way with old A C blower fans.
If you have to disconnect the the oil drain hose anyway, can you re-plumb it with a valve to ease the maintenance job next time ? Is there room enough for a little valve ? My old genny had what looked like a LP gas valve plumbed to the waste oil port of the oil pan. You needed an adjustable wrench to operate the valve. Very compact and worked perfectly.
And that valve would be more secure than say the hose running from the pan to the valve manifold at the exchanger pump. It is tight at the pan drain but perhaps a small LP valve would fit. Thanks for the idea.
Update. I removed the output electrical cables, ground wire, the exhaust hose, two raw water hoses, three mounting bolts, loosened the fourth and swung the unit about 45 degrees until the fuel line slack was taken up. I had to place a 3/4 inch board across the stringers for support. I was able to switch out the impeller and tighten a couple of seemingly loose hose clamps all left handed. The impeller, by the way, looked and felt really good, so into the emergency parts box it went. All in all 2 hours in a cool engine room. I can live with that.