Volvo IPS 500 Overheating

Only use the Volvo Penta specified coolant, never mix different coolants.

The coolant in your engines will be the green Volvo Penta coolant and not the yellow VCS coolant which is only for specific engines.

Hi,

How did the sea trail go?

Has the problem been sorted out yet or does the source still evade detection and rectification?

Hi Cpt. Dad

It seems that nearly every item to explain your overheating has been addressed in this forum thread. I, as are the others, am considerably interested to learn results from your sea trial. Do you know when that trial may occur? Have you had other potential causes explained by technicians outside this forum? Hope your findings are simple and inexpensive to rectify! – Best, W.

Dear Capt. Dad,

You've received a plethora of well-informed responses from YF members, but we've had no response from you. Our members took time to address your problem, but without a reply from you, it remains undiagnosed. Please update the thread with your results so others can benefit from the same. I'm sending a copy of this post to your email address as well.

Thanks!

YF Admin

I don't have any hands-on experience with IPS but a bit of surfing around tells me that the GRP hull is very likely not the only link between the two engines. There's indeed the joystick control, the autopilot and maybe more.

Hi,

The mysterious Volvo EVC has been found responsible for many problems on the D3 Engines, I have not as yet heard anything untoward about this system on the D6 which I believe is the engine type under discussion here.

It would be good to find out if this were the problem though.

Hopefully now the Bigman has asked for a response we might all be enlightened by the OP.

I would guess the issue is fixed and that is why the poster is not on here asking more questions. But, you never know. It would be nice to hear some feedback.

I think i asked that question before but have you actually checked the coolant temp to make used the engines are actually hot? All it takes is an IR gun on the Tstat housing

I just can't believe these guys are still throwing parts at this issue on your dime on a fairly recent boat...also when it starts running hot, check the rW water pump covers to make sure they re not hot. That would indicate that your pumps are not pulling water

Last week after service, as soon as we left on sea trial the mechanic came back up saying one pump was hot. For some reason it never reprimed which is something that never happened before

By that time impeller was toast... Easy to check for flow, pump cover and water hose /pipe to the pump will be cooler with water moving

That would only make sense with a system that expels exhaust fumes trough the propulsion unit. With a conventional system a quick peek over the side watching water shoot out should eliminate the possibility of a non priming RW pump.

Wait a second. I remember hearing a few people having issues on some of the IPS boats where the exhaust air/bubbles coming out of the drive would get sucked up by the raw water intakes on some of the boats, and they added some kind of special scoop to the intakes. But I think the problem was mostly at slower speeds.......

On my boat the DDs shoot a nice flow of water out the stern sonindeed it s easy to check. Unfortunately on some boats with under water exhaust it s impossible to actually see the outflow

Any ideas why nobody ever came up with an indicator outlet like on regular outboards? Could be a nice feature on all in-outboards too imo.

on big boat, you're not going to be able to see the indicator flow that easily.

what' i'd like to see is temp sensor on the raw water pump cover, a lot easier to install and maintain than flow indicators or pressure sensors.

I have temperature alarms on the exhaust hose but by time they get hot, the impeller would be toast

Hi,

You could always install a solid impeller pump instead of the rubber one that I am sure your DD's came with. These will take a lot more abuse than their flexible cousins.

Pressure sensors or a Murphy Gauge with a contact in it are a good way to see what's happening with the SW System.

I am just jumping into this thread without reading the whole thing but there is a guy in San Diego (Peter) at Cogswell Marine which is a Volvo Dealer and he is an absolute genious when it comes to the IPS drives it may be worth contacting him. I had some issues withe these drives 2 years ago and he was more helpful than Volvo with solving the problems.

I'm late here and reading quick. Have two thoughts;
Anybody checked the exhaust dump cans yet? Running thru the keys, Both engines picking up some sand/silt at the same time. Low hours. lots of sitting around. Exhaust cans can clog up in a hurry.
Somebody mentioned inlet hoses, I remember a problem where the inside of a hose of mine was causing a problem and the outside of that hose looked new.

Any results yet?

Have all the engine cooling components, indeed, been opened and checked/cleaned?

The sea grass in the Keys routinely gets sucked up into the pump in a "before-the-strainer" system and then is ground up to fine pieces before the strainer, which then allows the small "blended" particals to pass through into the cooling system.

I have seen black decomposed sludge built up at all components, even the gear oil cooler, the last cooling component before discharge.

Look at all engine raw water cooling components closely. And after that, insist on having your raw water system coverted to a pre-strained one that Volvo is now providing in their new power packages.

Evan

Hi,

As it has been a couple of weeks since the OP said he was waiting for a Tech to do a few things is there any chance that there is some new information as to what the problem is/was?

If time isn't a problem I think I will be in Fl for FLIBS so could take a look then if you like.

Hi,

Any update on this one there Cap?