Vetus Hydraulic Steering

I'm not onboard but from memory...
the nrv seems to have two bottom ports running to inside steering station, two top ports running to the outside (highest) steering station and two center-back ports running to the cylinder. There are two unused ports on either side. The balancing line runns just behind the valve but not through it.
The unit is a five inch by five inch box three inches thick.
Getting anything under it to catch drips is going to be a *****.

Given the history of what I've done so far This would seem like the next logical step?

what is left?

So, without re-listing everything I've already checked, let me add that once the dual station non-return valve was returned and reinstalled I capped off the lines to the autopilot, purged the system, closed the bypass loop and presto, there it was, that annoying "skip" in the helm when direction was changed.

I can see where there is anything else to check in the system except for removing the pin in the tiller head to see if its in the cylinder or the rudder itself. The rudder turned freely while disconnected during our recent haulout but...

Both helm pumps work function and move the rudder in the appropriate direction with the same "skip". Had the outside helm out and overhauled. Since it did not help I balked at removing the lower unit since it is in a difficult to reach area surrounded by wiring.

Gary asked about the re-chroming of the cylinder. It had minor pitting on it and was assumed to be the reason for a small leak at one of the seals. The unit was chromed and machined with seals replaced. Did not improve the feel but did eliminate a pint- per- month leak.

Planning on cutting out the pin this morning if the rain stops long enough to get to the lazerette.

this boat has two stations, both vetus pumps. The top one is outside with a vented cap. The lower one is inside with a solid cap. There is a balance line between the two.

The racheting is the same at both stations. It occurs in both directions regardless of where the cylinder is. It happens only when changing direction. There are about four skips of about five degrees or so resultiong in about a spoke before the helm feels normal. It will happen again as soon as the wheel is reversed.

Very hard to enjoy steering and especially frustrating when trying to sail a big heavy undercanvased boat in light winds...

Peter

Tomorrow morning the pin gets cut off of the tillerhead. When the cylinder was removed for rebuilding it was threaded off of the terminal eye. The cotter pin came out easily but the pin will not budge and is most assuredly worn into a shape other than round.
Maybe the missing link.

Took out the pin, dropped the tiller and found the rod-end eye was frozen and would not articulate. What a relief to finally find something obviously wrong! Except that wasn't it! Put a new end on, put a new pin in, put everything back together and "Click, Clack, clunk!" ****.
The only component left is the inside helm pump which is going to be difficult and messy to remove.
To add insult to injury, the helms are now several times more difficult to turn than previous to my explorations.

just to close the door on this one for the hundreds of people who have been following,

Hauled out again and dropped the rudder. We put a 50 ton port-a-power into the aperature and spread it open by pushing the skeg down about 3/16". Replaced both top and bottom bearings. The rudder post has a coupling to facilitate removal so we removed the top half and turned the portion where the packing seats on the lathe. Replaced the packing with teflon and threw it into the water.

Results? Finger tip control.

Having a smooth reliable steering system, priceless. The rest, Mastercard.