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Sea Recovery Aqua Whisper Watermaker

Discussion in 'Watermakers' started by CSkipR, Mar 11, 2013.

  1. CSkipR

    CSkipR Member

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    My lower pressure pump has gone out twice now because of its location and being susceptible to salt water spray. Its located in the engine room bilge below the waterline and I want to move it up to a better location. The pump is a 1/2hp centrifugal pump. Is there any reason the pump has to be located below the water line? I wouldn't think so since its just like a pool pump just want to be sure.
  2. MBevins

    MBevins Senior Member

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    Only thing you need to be careful of is making sure the pump is self priming.
    I'm assuming the pump supplies the unrefined water? If this is the case then your only other restriction is the "lift"capability of the pump.
  3. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    Yes most water maker feed / low pressure pumps are not self priming and must be below WL and there should be no high / low point in the hose between the strainer and the pump inlet Same thing with air con pumps

    Where is the spray coming from? I'd fix that first before trying to move the pump
  4. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    I second Pascals suggestion to remedy the spray that has caused the problem

    Or,

    If you can't move the pump or reduce the spray problem look for a motor that is designed to operate in a wet location.

    Salt Water us a great conductor , you could easily get a good zapp by wet electrics.
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2013
  5. CSkipR

    CSkipR Member

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    Watermaker Pump

    There is not a leak coming in. Its a small amount of water when cleaning strainers, etc that flows to a small area in the bilge where the pump is mounted. The water will sit there if not vacuumed up and slosh around the pump. The pump is a 120v centrifigal pump just like a pool pump. I will take the suggestion and call Beard Marine tomorrow and confirm that it will work mounted in a higher location.
  6. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi

    If you do remount it above the waterline and it wont prime a non return valve in the suction near the inlet valve will take care if this after the first run with it installed
  7. Bill106

    Bill106 Senior Member

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    The in-line check valve needs to have a low cracking pressure so the centrifugal pump can open it. It will also be a high maintenance item as any accumulation on the valve seat will allow water to drain past. I've also had good luck with a swing check valves if the plumbing geometry allows it to be mounted horizontally.
  8. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,
    My apologies ,I should have stated the type of valve.
  9. Bill106

    Bill106 Senior Member

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    None needed at all K1W1! Most people would reach for a standard bronze ball check valve but I know from experience the centrifugal pumps supplied by Sea Recovery won't pull hard enough to open them!
  10. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    You need to check where the waterline is and find a suitable location below that level as good as Beard is they can not change basic physic and that type of pump is not self priming. Period.

    I would absolutely not put a check valve... Our SR aquamatic 900 has a check valve before the feed pump to allow the fresh water flush to flush the feed pump as well and on average i have had to clean it once a year or manually reprint the pump which is below WL. Of course it always happens when the ER is hot, and when we re busy with charter guests

    Also, when Beard did the install they left a high point in the intake line which I had to eliminate.

    If you really cannot move the pump, then build a splash guard around it, it could be as simple as using a Rubbermaid type container (without cover of course) so that water below cant splash up
  11. Capt Bill11

    Capt Bill11 Senior Member

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    If you absolutely have to move it above the water line I guess you could change the pump out to one that is self priming and of the correct flow rate. But since the impeller style would change you would just have to keep an eye on it for wear and/or change it as a routine maintenance item before it craps out on you.
  12. CSkipR

    CSkipR Member

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    SR AquaWhisper 900gpd watermaker

    Okay heres my solution. Ordered another pump from Beard and replaced it where it was. Sprayed pump with CRC heavy duty spray and will take the advice of Pascal and put some type of rubber product around or under the pump. Will have to give it some thought on how to do it.
  13. wdrzal

    wdrzal Senior Member

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    Keep in mind the pump rejects it's heat through the motor casing,don't put anything on real thick that would act as insulation.
  14. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Why don't you just keep the bilge dry? It's easy to do on a Cabo, just shopvac it after cleaning the strainers.
  15. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    You don't want to enclose the pump but you could get a plastic box slightly bigger than the pump, trim it as needed, punch a couple of drain holes and mount it under the pump. Obviously dont put the lid.
  16. dikikh.dm

    dikikh.dm New Member

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    Good evening everyone,

    I'd be grateful if somebody could help me with the next issue. I have Aqua Whisper 1800 watermaker, which (as I know) was used last time 1 year ago, last cleaning, as well as filters replacement was done 2 years ago. No winterizing was done, but the watermaker is regularly flushed with fresh water.
    Today, I've tried to run it before cleaning. First it's stopped with the high pressure error, I've checked the system and started again. It hasn't indicated any error, both pumps have worked, I gradually adjusted the operation pressure up to about 600 psi, the flowmeter indicated that I should get about 30 gph of product water. However no water has been produced (I put the hose to the bucket to check the exact production). I let it work for about 5 minutes and then stopped.
    What can be the reason of this problem? Should I let it more time to run and may be purge air from the system?

    Thanks in advance.
  17. CSkipR

    CSkipR Member

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    By any chance has the boat been in dry dock? If so you might have an air lock. Disconnect your seawater line somewhere after your seacock and be sure seawater is flowing through it. If its an airlock that will probably be enough to fix it.
  18. dikikh.dm

    dikikh.dm New Member

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    Thanks, but I think that seawater is OK, because I released air when cleaned the sea strainer and I can see that water is flowing through the sightglass, brine discharge flow is also OK.
    Can it be that the problem is in the old charcoal filter, which is installed on the product water line? I'll remove the filter element from the bowl to see if it affects the water flow.
  19. dikikh.dm

    dikikh.dm New Member

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    Unfortunately, the charcoal filter is not a problem. I've disconnected the filter inlet pipe and put it to the bucket, still there's no water coming, although all pressure gauges readings seem to be OK, salinity indicator is OK and flowmeter indicates that I should get about 30-40 gph of the product water.
    Can the 3-way solenoid valve cause this problem? If so, how I can confirm it?
    Thanks.
  20. dikikh.dm

    dikikh.dm New Member

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    Update:
    When I open the 3way solenoid valve manually by leverage, water normally flows to the bucket, so the problem is in this valve. I've dismantled the valve and made sure that all water passes are clean. But the strange thing is that the valve has 12V supply and continuity is OK as well (about 13 Ohm resistance). So may be somebody can guess why it always stays in closed position? Is it normal that 12V is supplied even when the watermaker isn't running, also I find 12V on both solenoid valve pins.