I had my MAN valve covers done 5 years ago, and they have held up well. I believe it was one the processes that Capt holli refers to. I have a picture of one but when I try to post it, it says the file is too large. So if one of you can tell me how to reduce the size of my pictures I can post the picture. I am presently on the boat so don’t have access to my records on cost and who did them.
While at the FLIBS this past November, The Johnson & Towers 58 Viking had the valve covers hydro-dipped in a carbon fiber pattern. Looked great just not sure of the longevity. If you can get the old covers media blasted the hydro dip may be be a great way to refinish them.
I don't know what the heat will do and they look like full carbon fiber but the JT guy said they were dipped on the original MTU covers.
Wow! That's really good looking! Wonder how durable it would be but if car and motorcycle parts can survive on the highways with sun, dirt grit and petroleum products coming off of the surface I would think this water transfer process would hold up to a bit of heat and a little salt spray from the air intakes. Really sharp!
No, I have not touched them for 5 years. Is never dull in the blue can and has the waxy fiber? I don’t think they look any different from 5 years ago.
Haveing If you're on Apple bring the photo up in pictures. Go under the file tab to export. Chose medium format hand click export. It should put it on your desktop in about a 50K JPEG. I'd be interested to see what you did.
Update, sort of: I took two covers in to be done in black wrinkle. It's actually a pretty light wrinkle. $25 each in quantity of 24. They didn't get them back on Friday but I'll have them tomorrow. I also took one cover to a place that is a little more expensive, $30 in quantity and I'll have that one back tomorrow too. The new news is that if you have a good media blaster I think unless the cover is really pitted you could go to a gloss finish which lets you do any color you want. Worst case they may have to do two coats which raises the price to $40/each. Or, you just use the best ones on the inboard side. I don't think there's going to be any issue with warping but I was surprised how expensive it would be to have them surfaced. aprox $40 each. So pricing is $25 at the bottom end and it could go to $150 easy if you wanted them chromed. Anything will look much better than now. More to follow.
Looking forward to see a photo when finished. The only negative I can think of with a wrinkle finish would be keeping them clean of salt residue, oil mist and dirt in the cervices but maybe not. The covers in post #26 look to have been vapor blasted aka hydro blasted then clear coated. The process of vapor blasting aluminum alloy leaves a very smooth and shiny bright aluminum finish that removes minimal to no base metal nor will it deform the surface in any way. The final product after vapor blasting will require less effort to proceed with any of the discussed coatings or plating. Powder coating certainly sounds like the most cost effective process of any of the discussed options. I've never been involved in powder coating alloy castings so I'm very interested in the final results.
I think wrinkle finish is more the norm? My CAT's and Volvo diesels had wrinkle finish IIRC. A this point, I'm starting to lose my mind with the options and cost continuum. I just want to get the test ones back, make a decision and be happy it looks better than what I have now.
I got the two test covers back. The net is I'm surprised how well they came out. I had intentionally used ones that were pretty pitted. The bad news is that I don't like the black even though it looks much better. I'm going to have them done in gloss white. The picture shown is on an outboard side motor which has the most corrosion. I think it's going to look better in while gloss. View attachment 83811
I understand you don’t like the black but the result looks nice. BTW I like the black. Will the white have the rough finish?
The surprise to me was how well and pit free the finish ended up. I had gone with wrinkle to cover flaws but I think it will support just being gloss white. If I don't like that I'll do a gloss wrinkle white which will match the finish of rest of the motor. Either way, it's going to look much better. My power coater may kill me though. Actually, he's a really good sport about it and loves what he does.
The black looks better than I expected, but I like white in an ER because it shows leaks more readily.