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Overheating Issue

Discussion in 'Ocean Yacht' started by Boomer, Jun 2, 2018.

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  1. Boomer, Aug 7, 2019
    #121
    Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    Good idea...how did he manage to get the cleaner to stay in the tank and not drain out the other side? Wish I had known about my over heating issue last month...just replaced all the motor zincs
  2. Capt Ralph, Aug 7, 2019
    #122
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    What ever you do, work on a cold engine.
    The thermostat is in the coolant side for the engine, your trying to clean the raw water side.
    Heat will make working on the motor more a PIA.
    The acid will fume more and stink the whole ship in seconds including burning your eyes faster.
  3. Capt Ralph, Aug 7, 2019
    #123
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Not a clue. Not all should drain out. Maybe lift the hose off of the dump can?
  4. Boomer, Aug 7, 2019
    #124
    Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    I like it!
  5. Capt Ralph, Aug 7, 2019
    #125
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Uh?? About when the engine started running hot again?
  6. Boomer, Aug 7, 2019
    #126
    Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    Had 1 trip in between that went well...whatcha thinking about the zinc change?
  7. Capt Ralph, Aug 7, 2019
    #127
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    And that trip was long and fast?
    Did you put long zincs around the raw water pump?
    Were the old zincs worn or broken off?
  8. Boomer, Aug 7, 2019
    #128
    Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    Long zincs-2 inches each....ends of most zincs crumbled apart or were missing...replaced 5 of them
  9. cleanslate, Aug 7, 2019
    #129
    cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Yeah , I’ve used muriatic acid from a plumbing supply before back in the day on my Matthews with 6v53s
    It worked well, but environmentally frowned upon .

    Btw, those old GM diesels had the same cast tag on the front with the same rectangle heat exchanger in it and those were installed in 1962 .
    Same as my 1981 J&Ts...
    The cast iron coolant holding tank was the original Marine Design from Detroit diesel I would say .
  10. Capt Ralph, Aug 7, 2019
    #130
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    5? 2 on the raw pump?
    I am concerned that we are restricting water at the raw pumps.
    Missing? Hopefully a strong acid will desolve the missing parts.
  11. Capt Ralph, Aug 7, 2019
    #131
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I'm off for a boat ride. Back later today.
  12. cleanslate, Aug 7, 2019
    #132
    cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    make sure everything stays wet with the cleaner in the engine, don't let it run a little dry and get air into the engine , it won't do anything where you have air pockets...kill the engine from the bilge by the shut down damper on the motor or pull in on the stop solenoid , you'll have a few seconds to do that if you are going by yourself before you start to suck in air.
  13. Capt Ralph, Aug 7, 2019
    #133
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Got to tell you kids how nice it was on the StJohns river today. South of Palatka towards the north end of Lake George.
    Oretty Hawks, Ospreys and Eagles all in the air. Gators crossing the mirror smooth water.
    Tonight, we will get buzzed by Bats and Owls.

    I'm even pushing my slow boat slower.

    It's driving Josie crazy. She'll relax one day soon.
    I'm near back at home. Got to find a hiding place for my still. Then it'll be perfect fer me.
  14. cleanslate, Aug 7, 2019
    #134
    cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Very good CR! Sound nice! I've done some time fishing after Lake George near DeLand , on up , with golden shiners for big old bass. Wild river that St. Johns is. I ran into sea cows, two river otters, and other neat animals while there.
    Yeah push it slower, fewer things break then. Fuel lasts way longer too.
    Send me some hooch!
  15. Boomer, Aug 8, 2019
    #135
    Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    2 on the cooler before water pump, one on flange before/after pump, and one on the cast tank
  16. Capt Ralph, Aug 8, 2019
    #136
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    These are 2 inches long, probably 3/4 inches in diameter X 5.
    Plus the broken ones in there some ware. Dissolved grey (old zinc material) mud lurking also
    You don't see a water restriction here?
  17. Boomer, Aug 8, 2019
    #137
    Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    I do see an potential issue...but...why is only one motor overheating? Both motors have the same zincs in the same places
  18. Capt Ralph, Aug 8, 2019
    #138
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I can not deliver exact science by key board. But just a few extra broken globs of old zincs MAY make a large difference. Worn pump cam, bad or restricted tubes, couplings, flanges, hose or HEs full of glob are still on our line up of suspects.
    I'm assuming it was clean a few months ago.

    Long zincs-2 inches each....ends of most zincs crumbled apart or were missing...replaced 5 of them

    Only thing that has changed is the zincs. You can not account for the lost material.
    Tell me more about this cooler before the pump, 2 zincs there? Been rodded yet?
    Can you send a pic please?
  19. Boomer, Aug 8, 2019
    #139
    Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    Too big to post by phone...will email it to you
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2019
  20. Capt Ralph, Aug 8, 2019
    #140
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Got your pictures.
    Lets pull the hoses of that cooler (clutch?) before the raw pump. Shine a dim light into one end, you should see a big shinny bug eye back at you. About 30+ lil in line tubes all shinny and clear. One short zinc on the out put, just plug the low side.
    This is easy and give us a report on how clear is was / was not.
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