For what it is worth, the temp where the exhaust enters the header was between 190 and 265 according to the ir gun at speed in neutral
Lets fine tune where your talking. Raw water on the metal can or rubber hose? That water should be way below engine coolant temp.
Top of the piston where exhaust enters header. Sent pic of dump can.....themostat sender shows 165 temp reading on it gun at the same time
That may or may not mean anything. Scenario 1; Suddenly issue develops. Scenario 2; All debris in system gets packed down after many hours.
The UN-cooled exhaust between the head and water cooled manifold log? Under power, you can cook on these short passages. My sep-son heated up leftovers here before I replaced our dead inverter.
I'm going to call this a 6-71 TI, not a 6-71 TIB. I also see it's vert tight back there remembering it's the stb main. Also MES from 2002?
Under the heat shield (blanket wrap), keeping the riser tight to the turbo is a large V clamp. Pick up a new clamp. Remove this clamp, the water hose and loosed the 5" exhaust hose. The riser will fall away from the turbo. With a twisting motion, the riser should come out of the 5" hose. Big Screwdriver opening up the hose a lil bit and squirting wd40 in that opening between the can and hose should help. Raise the riser up. Have a Nerf football or small boat fender (anything 5" & round) ready to stuff in the hose should sea water want to splash in. Wear old gloves during this. The inside of the riser at the turbo may be covered in black slobber, the metal edges could be sharp. And there is wire in those hoses. Did you ever get a temp reading (under load) rite where the decal or MES stamp are located? Or even the 5" hose itself?
Will get those readings under load on Saturday when I go to get her hauled foe a bottom job...hose will have to wait until back in the water...the thermostat housing is about 6 inches aft of the temp sender unit..correct?
Yes. Take a bunch of pictures from all angles. Looks like the bottom right will be blind to you where some hoses go down.. Evenly snug bolts up, no need to kill them. Old school is WP grease on the gaskets and seals, lock-tite on the threads.
Well, your not extracting the last 75 to 100 hp from the same block. You have to remember, the 6-71 started life as a 2 valve 100hp rocket in the 30/40s. Very dependable and bomb proof. Go-zillions of hours. Throw a 4 valve head on top, turbo, inter-cooler and big A injectors for big HP numbers, something has to give; engine life. What HP tune do you have? Covington, J&T, DDC, S-S. I like the plain white and dry turbo, I think DDC, 385hp?