New owner got stuck in mud in main channel

Right on as usual Ken, but I'd still go for the haul. Remember this is a 33 foot. A haul isn't expensive and I'd really like to look over the running gear in the daylight. Plus, we know a prop has to be changed which would mean a second dive since he doesn't have a spare. The struts and shaft are also a lot skinnier than on your boat and a very slight bit off will cause problems.

My opinion would be to haul. Yes the prop can be changed out easily. In fact on that boat you could probably do it snorkeling (althought I seem to remember your water as being like ice ). I'd save that for emergencies though and let your yard take a look at everything. It will also give you an opportunity to get aquainted with the service dept. and them with you.
You mentioned that the boat had only an engine survey. While the boat is out of the water go down the hull tapping it every few inches with your knuckle looking for sogged areas. You'll know the sound you don't want to hear if you hear it.
The oil sounds new with a little bilge dirt. It's probably a non-issue. Clean it up and monitor it. Line your engine boxes with oil pads. It will save you work in the future.

You probably won't see anything until the engines are put under a load. 67 hours in 2 years isn't much so you may just have some dried gaskets which should be anything to worry about. The vibration is a sure sign of a bent prop. The first engine stall was likely due to digging a prop blade into the bottom. The second may have been the same thing if you were still in shallow water, or may have been caused by picking something (i.e. a piece of line) off the bottom when you touched.
I would check the oil level in the transmissions and keep a close eye as they surely took the brunt of the force that stalled the engines (other than the prop).
Good luck.
Ken
BTW- It's nice to see the YF senior guys jumping in to help a new owner/member. This thread is a text book version of how this Forum is meant to help others.

I believe that RH stands for right hand although I could be wrong. If so , the price is right so buy one that hopefully you'll never use . You should have counter rotating props so keep looking for a LH. If sized properly (22x22) they should be fine as spares. Depending on whether your props spin inward or outward(most likely) mark it with a S or P to save confusion down the road.
P.S. If I'm correct in the meaning of RH and your props spin outward that prop would be for your starboard side. Put it atop your current prop and you'll see if the direction of the cupping matches. BTW- @ $350 count on it being reconed, but that's no big deal if done right.

Before you buy those props keep in mind the shaft's taper. There is US taper and Euro taper. The best I can explain it is that US taper goes from wide to narrow over a longer distance than European taper (similar to slope). I would also try to buy a matching pair of props. A matching pair will be made of the same alloys, have exact same layout, cup, pitch, overlap, etc... I would contact Carver or a local dealer, someone is bound to have a set laying around

Being on the water is a constant learning experience, running aground in the channel is not unheard of, it has happened twice to professional captains that I know recently.

Welcome to the forum!

Nicholas

I would contact a well respected prop shop in your area. I have only had one set of propellers made for me and I learned a bit about the process. 21x21 means that the propellers have one inch less in diameter(the first number) and one inch less in pitch (the second number). Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe a one inch reduction in pitch will increase the wide open throttle (WOT) rpms on the main engines by 100 x the transmissions reduction ratio. So say your regular props achieved 2300 RPM at WOT with the 22x22 props, if your transmission gear ratio is 2.0:1 and you lower the pitch by 1 in then your WOT RPM will be 2500. Changing the diameter will also effect the rpm, but I know less on that subject. The 100 multiplier can change based on hull type boat weight, etc.

First, I think you should recondition your current props. If the props aren't badly bent you will lose only a little strength and you will be back on the water. When propellers have been badly mangled and they are straightened they lose some thickness in the metal of the blades. When these blades are put under load they flex and become less efficient. The boat will burn more fuel to go the same speed. Once the propellers are back on go for a sea trial. On the sea trial you want to run the boat through the rpm range. You are looking for vibration, which would indicate a bent shaft, and that you are getting the maximum RPMs out of your engines. If you are getting less rpms then your reconditioned propeller blades are flexing as they go through the water. Before the seatrial make sure the bottom and fuel filters are clean, they both can effect load and rpm.

The reason that I do not think you should try and buy props off the internet is that you really do not know what you are getting. When I had my new props made the prop shop wanted to know the following: make and model, the boats weight, hull shape, main engines including horsepower, shaft size, reduction ration, current propeller diameter, pitch, overlap, taper, cup, number of blades, etc.. Using these numbers he came up with a propeller that was different than the factory propellers, but caused the boat to pick up speed at cruise and wot. We didn't have to tweak those propellers, but according to the prop shot they could have altered the new propellers pitch by up to two inches.

Good luck with your diver today.

Nicholas