MAN 800HP engines

Service

The 1000 hour or 2 year service should cost 14 to 17,000 by a MAN dealer and if not already done on your proposed purchase can normally be negotiated in the deal. 25,000 sounds like a lot more work was done than just the normal

Are your prices per engine? In my experience, $14-17k is generally about right per engine, not for both. I have seen a couple of pairs of the 800's undergo the 1000 hour service by the MAN dealer, and both motors the total was around $26-28k.

Eloyex, thought my comment would have the opposite effect - sorry for hi jacking your thread.

Cost

Hi CaptJ,

Just checked my facts with 3 MAN dealers, $14,900 from one, $16,000 to $20,000 from another and $22,000 from the third for two eight cylinder 800 HP engine 1000 hour service.

That is the total cost for both engines not per engine.

Bit of a spread and the cheapest probably does more MAN work in Vikings, Princess's and Sunseeker than the others.

Yachtjockey

The price spread may be due to what the mechanic includes in his work list apart from the man "must do" scehdule - some mechanics, for instance. will not include taking off and cleaning of the tranny oil cooler. I would think its important to get a detailed work list with each estimate because of this variation?

I'm not sure what these other guys are quoting but here is what we've done to both motors:

1- new injectors
2- Rebuilt fuel injection pumps
3- rebuilt intercoolers
4- rebuilt turbochargers (3)
5- new turbocharger (1)
6- rebuilt oil coolers (both engine and tranny)
7- rebuilt water pumps
8- new belts
9- new alternators
10- adjust valves
11- change all fluids
12- all new o-rings and gaskets throughout cooling system and charge air system
13- replace fuel and oil lines (hard) as necessary
14- service transmissions
15- rebuild both starters
16- replace all wastegates with new
17- all new hoses throughout both engines both water and air

I'm sure I've forgotten something on the list, but like I said, we're well over $25k.

Service

I do not think rebuilding both Starters or renewing each Alternator is part of the regular 1000 hour service and although renewing all hoses and rebuilding the water pumps may be very good practice I do not think these are part of the service either.

I agree it is best to get a detailed list of the work to be done and get quotes for the same work.

I don't see it as being a 1000 hour service as much as I see it being a service on a pair of 13 year old motors that happened to have a thousand hours on them. If you have the inter coolers off you've basically completely exposed th injection pumps making it a cinch to pull them out. At that point, why not pull the pumps and have them sent out? While you're in there, why not do the injectors? On this particular boat although the motors were running fine, the injectors had spray patterns that were unacceptable so why not have them gone through? In this case it new nozzles were no longer available so we replaced the injectors with new. As far as the starters and alternators, rebuilding the existing units only cost just over $500 all in, was that not worth the piece of mind?

Look at it this way, with the work we've done, the engines should be good for another 1000 hours or another 13 years, whichever comes first...

All of the ones I experienced needed the turbo's rebuilt (some were the 2,000 hour service, which is the same as the 1,000 hour but the engines have more usage obviously).

Some of the things called for in the 1,000 hour service are: injectors removed and flow tested, valves adjusted, injector pump checked, head bolts torqued, intercooler aftercooler and heat exchangers removed and cleaned and pressure tested among other stuff.

I manage and run a 2007 62' Predator with man 1100 common rails. Most of the boat is built well and well engineered. The boat is extremely dry and I ran the boat 12 days all through the Bahamas and Exumas and never even got salt on the hull, it rides well and is stable and quiet at cruise. However it does not like to turn on it's axis with just the engines even though it doesn't have tunnels.

The only things I can complain about is they wired all of the aft deck LED's in series causing many of the bulbs to burn out and well unless you want to buy the entire housing at $130, they do not sell just the light capsules in the US (Foresti & Suardi). The deck lights are the same and they're $58 each. I ended up rewiring them properly so they are not in series anymore.

Also, the nimrods installed Algae X's and NO primary fuel filters, just relying on the MAN filters.......the Algae X's macerate the algae so it goes right through the MAN primaries and plugs up the secondaries and there is no space to install racor's ANYWHERE in the ER. Even though the engine room is fairly spacious.

Boarding the boat if you're not on a floating dock is a modern miracle considering the hull sides are about 8' tall and there is nowhere really logical to install a marquipt.

The emergency bilge pump is in another brilliant location. It is in the lazarette as are it's manual valves to determine where to pull water from, and it's mounted less than a foot off of the engine room floor. Guess which place would flood first if you're running and have a large leak in the engine room.

The boat also has a lot of long gel coat stress cracks, in places where it wasn't from hitting a dock or other stress, like the top of the house, sides of the house, places on the center front deck etc......

OHHH AND THE MOST BRILLIANT THING. They installed a 32 gallon holding tank, that's right, 32 gallons for a boat that has 3 staterooms and sleeps 6. With all guests on board, I have to pump out the holding tank daily.

All in all, I've seen much worse problems on many yachts.

No, from a floating dock they're fine. Step right on the swim platform and right up the steps to the aft deck. I told the owners not to put a dinghy on the platform for this reason and also, for the once a year we might want one, we'll just rent a 17' whaler instead somewhere.........getting on from a fixed dock is a modern miracle......the only thing you can do is try to line up the steps from the aft deck to the swim platform perfectly next to a piling, not use a fender there, and just jump across with whichever step happens to be at the right height.

Recheck the original post, based on the fact that he's looking at a 58 predator it's safe to assume that the boat is at least ten years old.

I cannot say that the older sunseekers were built better than the newer ones. The sunseekers you are looking at are built ok and there is nothing wrong with them, however Sunseeker has learned a lot along the way and implemented that in the newer ones, I also think the build quality is a little better.

I was on one of the early 74' Manhattens and my friend ran another 74' manhatten (hull #1). Those boats had a lot of build issues...... The teak aft decks were not sealed properly and a lot of water would leak into the engine room and all over the motors, and the deck would flex. The interior ceiling panels would fall down all of the time in 3-5' seas and break all of the wires off of all of the light assemblies. Factory service in the US at the time was very poor in the way they handled the problems and the customers. They built too many at the same time, and didn't have the proper warranty support or parts support to keep up with the amount of boats they were selling IMO. A friend of mine ran a 2010 74' Manhatten and they'd still take months to fix relatively small warranty problems, but they seem to have the parts I need in stock.

I believe the Sunseekers have their gelcoat applied by a paint brush in the mold, not spray gun?

Always wondered how they controlled mil thickness. Gelcoat cracks/crazing may only be superficial/cosmetic, always have your surveyor give you a final opinion.