I did ask, they did not currently seem to eager to go any where due to the work load they have in house at the moment . I did ask about any boat yard in the upper bay that they work with ,but nothing really came up. Anyway, I'm willing to learn how to do this on my own. I really feel I can do it. Along with my new older DD friend. I'll be the bull, he can be the know how /brains and keep me on a good track.
Check this out I just got this from my parts friend at J &T in the Mount Laurel New Jersey office.(which is the branch I normally deal with and like, but they no longer have a Marine division there) It came out of my engine folder from 1980 upper left-hand corner unfortunately didn’t scan through but it’s rated at 300 hp not sure at what rpm. SM-95 injector is a doctored up J &T injector now called the M 15. “S” means special. Good info ; 471TI.
I find it most unusual that the sheet specs all "C" oils but not CF2. CF2 is the DDC required oil. Not these others as on your sheet..
I noticed that to. This is old paperwork. Some of the notes may go back to the 1970s . Perhaps CF2 spec was not around then ? Also I was surprised by the coolant note , run it around 30% antifreeze/water. I run 50/50 for years with no problems.
This is old school that I still go by. I only use 30 to 40% antifreeze. It is the water that transfers the heat. Antifreeze helps keep the engine from freezing or boiling over. Other coolant benefits are rust-scale protection, pump bearing lube, gasket and seal protection, 30% will cover these also. Even at 30%, there is a lot of freeze protection. Ever read the label on the bottle?
I did , 30% covers to 20f. We just had two days over Christmas weekend playing around 9f. At my slip. I’m sure we’ll get a few more days like that, I’ll stick with 50/50 for my location.
Lol, yeah I'm keeping her away and off the boat till May... Yes, CR, time for lots of love and attention down below. Everything above the hatches is all redone, interior, exterior etc. Now it's time for the motors and bilge.....
I did make progress last week, Entire exhaust section is off including turbo and inner cooler.. what do I do with the old rusty coffee can oil collector down on the side of the block? It goes to the Airsep. Is there a newer design I should install or clean up the rusty can that I’ve got I think it’s still OK it doesn’t seem to be leaking.
You have asked about that before. Been a couple of years?? Got it now; You have no valve cover vents. Usually, I see the AirSep drawing crankcase fumes from the valve cover vents. That can is the engine vent. Baffled and maybe some wire mesh inside. Yes, you have to clean it up and save it. I doubt you will find another can like that. Ole Cummins just have a pipe coming up. At least you have a lil capture can.
How old is your AirSep? I see your pic the air filter held on by springs. Your Case/Oil filter inside the AirSep may be beyond its service life. Oil return line from the AirSep back to the sump real wet?
So, your really going for it. Please keep the pictures coming. Your actions here prove that kids on a budget that are not scared to turn a wrench, can keep these old girls running. I tip my hat and will help any way I can from my recliner,, as always. Just keep better back posture when you can. The angles you must twist thru will kill some mussels in a hurry. Over extending will hurt some bone and vertebrae. I am the barely walking example.
yes we did talk about it but I kind of forgot and still have a hard time comprehending what it does but I guess I’ll see you when I pull it off. Yes I cannot find a new one. They seem to make aftermarket stuff that looks different. But this one seems to be OK I’ll clean it up repaint it clean out the insides and put it back in the service.
I replaced all the filters two years ago the lines not very wet at all, although I found a little chafe pinhole where the hose was rubbing against the engine and caused a leak so I’ll fix that. Previous owner put the Airseps on I say they’re from the 1990s but they’re in good shape on both motors. Nice and clean . I clean and re-oil the filters every winter.
Definitely I will keep that in mind. This is definitely not a race and I will take my time and think twice maybe even three times before I tackle something. Got my friend coming to the boat tomorrow to spend a few hours with me to look over things as I said before the retired guy from J & T. He and I are going to look into the cylinders access panels , I got a scope camera with SD card to take photos ….
I did not type well. There is another filter built inside of the big assembly. It separates the crank case fumes and oil. The oil drains and returns to the sump (oil pan) while the gasses and fumes are consumed back into the turbo. These separating (coalescing) filters do get saturated with oil gunk and clog preventing the proper operation of the AirSep design. Later Walker design have a serviceable filter cartridge where the whole big black junk does not have to be trashed. Check your manuals on the Walkers, they do have a hour period to replace that big assembly. Not many folk realizes this and keep going till oil is leaking everywhere. I'm fixing to convert a twin an original Walker install to a Racor CCV system because the original Walkers are so old and full of stuff.