M T f U! I'll do it myself.

CR !
Got your email that’s the older version of the one I have mine is the newer version but not the newest version if that makes any sense.
I’ve got the book on mine.
I could never get my regulator valve all the way out to inspect the springs and what not because my rear low-profile intercooler was right above it keeping it from coming out all the way.
Anyway I’m going to check carefully the regulator valve springs O-rings etc.
and probably throw on a new oil pump.
The oil cooler for it is the nice big cooler up in my heat exchanger tank the six or eight plate job.
I changed out the oil lines that run from the gear up to the cooler during this rebuild possibly they are breaking down within and causing me problems.

problem is same as a few seasons ago I’ve just been living with it oil will not drain back down into the sump gear is creating vacuum within holding the oil in place if I shifted into reverse and let it sit for a couple days it drains back into the sump.
pressure gauge dances around at normal operating temperature at 800 RPMs or less. pressure is steady at 350 above 900 RPMs.
I never notice any slipping or anything like that.
Anyway I’m gonna do all that I can and go from there.
Using SAE 40 oil..CF2. Same as motor.
Level is spot on. Oil screen is clean.
My gut is telling me it’s possibly the old oil lines which are about 6 feet long old and original brittle as hell.

Look what I found …
Now I can replace my rusty POS…

A little bit of PB blaster soak and a few taps with the mallet freed up the old crank case filter; new one installed.

Also set all four liners today by my mechanic.
I also decided to replace the fresh water pump. After so closer inspection I see the seal is just starting to leak. I had the pleasure of removing that. You need the bent 90 degree wrenches for that.

The shop i’m using that supplied the parts has assembled the pistons connecting rods the rings and will set them into the liners for me when I go to pick them up.

you should see the shop it’s just west of Harrisburg Pennsylvania right outside of Carlisle Pennsylvania in the middle of farmlands.
Believe they’re all Mennonites or Amish Owners / employees.

Very nice shop and well stocked parts department.
I’ve had zero problems getting parts.

I will consider this and look into it.
I’m getting a new one/ rebuilt for $114.00.
Ugh… time .
Easy to hand over the old one and get a new one and move on.

That being said , don’t I need a special tool to set the bearing/ seal ?
Or would a good old deep socket of the right size and a mallet whack do the trick ?
I must say mine looked brand new on the inside . Metal impeller in perfect condition. All of it seamed to be original.

Yes it’s off. I did question my Old J and T mechanic…he said need special press for the seal etc… easy for them to say just grab one from the J and T shelf, as it was during his time.
I got ya CR . I would like to try it next time . Live and learn. And I’m enjoying it. I’m happy things are slowly going back together. It’s been a juggling act.
Boat, reality, boat , reality.
I’m at the half way mark.
My mechanic wants me to have ready liners/pistons etc , oil pump, oil pan
All gaskets etc ready to roll for install next visit to the yacht. Lol.
Yeah I’m doing a lot of the work. He’s my security blanket.

Whew ! It’s finally going back together!

My 77 year old mechanic friend Joe, pretty much insisted that he install the pistons and liners. Kind of think he enjoyed doing the work.
Here he is laying down and reaching up under the motor installing the rod caps.
Had a good day yesterday. Got all pistons in , oil pump with new pressure springs back in, pick up tube etc. back in. Oil pan on, and new water pump installed.

Nice and shiny!

Here’s the place I got most of my parts from. The also put together the pistons kits and loaded them into the liners for me. They had everything in stock. They were extremely helpful, pleasant, and have good numbers $$ on the parts.
Leids Diesel , Newville Pa.
Most of my stuff was Interstate- McBee, FP, PAI main bearings, MTU and J&T in that order. Lots of players for this little darn engine!

Had another great day today. We got the cylinder head back on , new injectors in -M15-, valve Heights checked and set, New fuel lines in etc. etc.. Thank goodness for Joe the DD mechanic , made it look easy. It most certainly is not.
he also adjusted the rack of course installed the governor fuel rod etc.
The rack is smooth as can be from rest to full throttle.

Got the rocker cover looking nice stands out like a sore thumb I’ve got lots of painting to do!!

He is retired 77 years old . He’s paid his dues at J & T for many years.
He’s got a 90 mile radius limit from his house in South Jersey.
I think if it’s got more than 6 cylinders he’s not going to work on it.
He works on a few 40’ Vikings and a Jersey that have 671s here at my winter marina.
He’s really doing me a favor. He doesn’t have to work , but still enjoys it , if it’s the right job. My little 471 is just the ticket. Lucky me.

I did the hoist/frame, raised the engine, disconnected almost everything, found and ran around for all the parts, had everything ready for him to do the technical steps.
He and his wife would drive down . She drops him and his tools off, then goes shopping. When on board all he did was work, he showed me lots of stuff, and I was his helper when needed.
Your first $$ number is correct, plus 50 cents mile for travel.

J & T is $160 per hour for one tech.

Unfortunately CR as you well know it’s a dying breed. He’s not going to travel far anymore. Nor bust his hump day in and out.

Yeah I’m running , running from this project for a few days!