I noticed a rust stain on the port outboard side under the cockpit fishbox so removed fishbox. The large exhaust cylinder appeared to have a screw in the lower rear portion of the cylinder probably to drain water where freezing is an issue. My guess. The stainless screw (sm bolt) has just about rusted through and cannot easily be removed. Going to put a patch of 3m 5200 over it to stop dripping and in case screw rusts out completely it won't leak. In reviewing the 3m5200 specs it says temperature should not be over 190 degrees and I don't believe this gets that hot. Can anyone provide approximate temperatures. Thanks
Hey Skip Is the screw below the water line? Can you get to it? I'd scuff and clean it up, put a nice epoxy patch over it. 5200 is good stuff but better sand winched between things.
I'd agree with Ralph. 5200 is really a 'glue' it needs to be compressed between two surfaces. Clean the area and apply the appropriate epoxy or fiberglass resin.
Yes I am sure the screw is below the waterline and it is accessible. Will do an epoxy patch or marine tex.
How difficult was it to remove the fish boxes? The ones on my 35 Cabo were easy to remove, however the ones on the 40 are installed differently.
Each box has 4 screws. One in each corner. Remove them as well as macerator pump hose. Remove fish box lid hardware inside lip. Razor knife as much caulk out as you can. Next I very carefully place a bottle jack under the rear corner that you have access to. With a thin chunk of wood place pressure under bottom lip of box. Go back to razor duty. Fun stuff. Do it once. Do it right. Boxes on my 48 are out now. The 40 is a bit tougher with prop pockets reducing access.
Thanks for the lessens learned regarding the 40 with the prop pockets. I can see the (4) little screws in each corner and all the caulk. Razor duty and patience and I will get them out. As mentioned,I did the same on my 35 Cabo express which gave me full access to the exhaust line and strut fasteners. I also replaced the fish box gaskets while I had them out. It sounds like after all the caulk is removed, and macerator pumps disconnected, I should be able to break the seal between the fish box and deck connection, with a little hydraulic help, aft to forward.
Wonder why Cabo made those so hard to remove? With a macerator pump and other service items below you would think they would be easier to remove and access underneath. Especially since they thought everything else out so nicely. I was in Virginia last week and was fortunate enough to get a tour of Capt. Maritime's 40' Cabo. Beautiful boat that is really laid out well and well designed. Too bad they sold the Cabo brand
With the 4 screws if you set the fishboxes on some type of gasket and didn't use silicone or caulk it would be easy to remove. It is all the surface area around perimeter on flange that really makes it tough to break free when properly bedded. I normally use 4000 UV.
Do you know what type of caulking Cabo used at new construction back in 2005? I'm hoping the 18 year old caulking lets go with out too much force.
Yes it was a silicone type caulking. It appears as though the port fish box was removed in the past as it came out very easily. After removal I could tell the exhaust silencer had been removed and re-installed, likely as interference to replace the hydraulic lines to the steering rams. Next to identify where this common bonding connection should be connected. I'm planning to install new hatch seals and new gas lift support struts as well.