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Low shore power voltage

Discussion in 'Technical Discussion' started by NYCAP123, Jul 2, 2013.

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  1. Marmot

    Marmot Senior Member

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    For enders ...

    Do a little bit of Googling for meter safety, arc flash, electrical safety. The history of cheap meter explosions, fires, and smoked amateur electricians is long and gruesome.

    When you discover that the probes are not long enough or thin enough to reach inside the shore power socket or female end of the cord to read a voltage, what is your next step?

    Attached Files:

  2. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    So his the history of over paid, over rated, over charging, customer abusing professional technicians..
  3. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    Use those cheap test leads with an alligator clip at each end, one end on the probe and the other on something long and skinny enough to reach into the hole.

    Nails , bits of wire coat hangers, electrical screwdrivers all work just fine.

    The beauty of using those test leads in between is they form a sort of safety device in the event of a major over current. You can tell this is happening as the insulation really swells before they burst into flames :D
  4. saltysenior

    saltysenior Senior Member

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    Gee! I wish I knew that before I used a $20 voltmeter 1,653 times in the past...:eek:
  5. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    The $20.00 Meter will probably be a world away from the Barbie Pink $5.00 one you linked to
  6. Marmot

    Marmot Senior Member

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    Don't worry ... there's always the next time.
  7. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Jeeeez Marmot, how else are you going to light the charcoal barbeque grill on the dock next to the power pedestal when the winds blowing????? And at $5 a pop, it's almost as cheap as lighter fluid in some places!
  8. saltysenior

    saltysenior Senior Member

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  9. wdrzal

    wdrzal Senior Member

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    Here's what I mostly use, over 15 years old now: Fluke T5-1000 max voltage 1000V. They also make a T5-600,max voltage 600 . Only has 4 settings Off ,Volts(this is auto-detecting AC or DC & auto ranging) Amps(measures current directly,place wire between fork, don't have to break circuit) Ohms(has continuity beeper) and a display hold button.

    Probes ends are flat to fit into a 120v. receptacle and removable. I recommend the extension lead set with some alligator clips. The leads are silicone rubber not cheap plastic.

    If you have only one meter this should be your first. Your not always switching the probes plugs-ins & guessing if you got it right.

    Fluke-Direct.com | Trusted Name At Great Prices.


    http://www.fluke.com/Fluke/usen/Electrical-Test-Tools/Electrical-Testers/Fluke--T5.htm?pid=55986
  10. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    Fluke Meters are the best IMO.

    I have two older Fluke 87's that are kept calibrated as they are excellent for setting up Gensets and an older Model 27 with an Amp clamp and Temp Module.

    A test light is also a favourite of mine for DC stuff or a moving coil meter as a true digital meter can be misleading at times when dealing with low volt DC systems.
  11. wdrzal

    wdrzal Senior Member

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    I agree,a high quality analog meter should also be part of your electrical tool kit . Unless your going to spend 5 to 10 grand on a 3 color oscilloscope !
  12. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    You guys did get that I'm a captain who's close to retirement, with a one time situation to check out, and one who has never had the need to use a meter in the past 40 years; not an engineer or electrician. Although I have no intention of putting a $5 anything into a 50 amp socket, I think I'll probably do ok for about 30 bucks. Fortunately I have a friend who's an excellent electrician to lead me to a decent meter (or I can use his) and supervise my checks. Unfortunately he's not licensed or insurred so can't actually work on the boat (utility worker).
  13. Marmot

    Marmot Senior Member

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    H'mmm, that's never stopped anyone before.
  14. wdrzal

    wdrzal Senior Member

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    That's why there is so many voltage dips and Back EMF caused/coming from the boats around you.
  15. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    I feel completely comfortable to have him do the wiring in my house, but I wouldn't allow it on a boat I was responsible for, and no yards I know of would permit it. So it stops me. Again, different if it were mine, but it's not.
  16. Marmot

    Marmot Senior Member

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    Back EMF? Must be a motor boat, eh?

    Or was that just inductive reasoning?
  17. wdrzal

    wdrzal Senior Member

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    Ha Ha LOL funny :) But those pod drives are a Motor boat in the truest sense of the word.


    Back to NYCAPT123 the marina should have a meter you can borrow ?
    I think forum members that ask technical questions should post a lot more pictures. Many threads have none. Not only does a picture = 1000 words, it makes a thread much more interesting. It's hard to give advice without seeing what's there.
  18. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    OMG we've decended into electrician humor. I get the feeling we're about to enter an episode of the 'Big Bang Theory' (I think it's called).:confused::D

    Best I could do with pics on this would be a pic of my meter, but in general I do agree. Pictures are worth 1,000 words in most technical cases. For this thread though I've learned what I needed to learn. Only thing left is to confirm when I'm on the boat. I think I'm going to find that I have a 220V system, not a 208/220V system, and that I'll need to have a smart voltage booster installed (or carry a portable unit).
  19. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    I don't go out on a boat with out a good meter on board. I rarely do deliveries these days but if I cannot verify the boat has one, I bring my own fluke and it sees a lot of use whether on the DC or AC side.
  20. chesapeake46

    chesapeake46 Senior Member

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    Which brings us back to post# 40.
    You almost certainly have one pair of a 120/208 V system but only your meter will know for sure.

    To summarize
    Check the voltage at the pedestal with no load.
    Check the voltage boat end of the cord with no load.
    Shut it off and plug the cord to pedestal and the female into the boat.
    Check the voltage at the power panel at no load.
    If you have alligator type clips you can leave the leads attached to either phase to phase or phase to neutral and gradually add load until your are fully loaded.

    I think you can safely rule out any counter EMF's or back EMF's.

    Good luck and try not to earn a nick name like French Fry or Sparky....:)