HRO/Sea Recovery Watermakers

I could not open your picture file. Thanks anyway for telling us that you once got a reconditioned pump for free from HRO. If they knew already then it was a "250 hour pump", did they not suggest to upgrade to the vane pump?

In 2006 the vane type seems to be the one and only feed pump for all their systems, so I doubt they at that time were delivering new systems with pumps they knew should fail after 250 hours..?

http://www.artimarin.com/PDF/Seafari_Escape_Owner_Manual_Oct06_web.pdf

Don't remind me how much of my own money I have spent on replacing computers and software that has become obsolete since 2003...

Re: Post 61

That pump is "field repairable" in about 30 minutes on the galley table with probably just a change of "liner" and vanes.

Hi,

Here are the photos he was trying to upload, the ETD thing has me the most interested, how can a diaphragm pump supply enough grunt to push water through the membrane?

Here are some more

That is a Procon PD pump. Here is where to get the repair parts. It is up to you to find room on the galley table.

Procon Pump Parts - Dultmeier Sales

Here's the manufacturer's data:

http://96.61.63.50/techlib/Procon/Procon_Pump_General_cat_D603.pdf

Google Procon and you will find all the technical information you need to maintain and repair the things. This is not rocket science as much as the supplier would like you to think it is.

K1W1, the "ETD" is what makes the high pressure. It is an "intensifier" just like used to boost shop air up to high pressure or to use shop air to drive a hydrostatic test pump. It uses a large volume of low pressure fluid to create a small volume of high pressure fluid.

We used a similar hydraulic powered unit as a high pressure ballast pump on deep diving submersibles down to 2000 meters.

I suspect that the diaphragm pump is used elsewhere, if it is used as a "boost" pump then that explains why the vane pump died so early. A vane pump with any kind of a suction head will destroy itself rapidly due to cavitation.

Looking at those pictures, it appears that the Shur Flo is used as a "freshwater flush pump." Unless the flushing check valve is leaking because of debris from the PD pump vanes and is over pressurizing the diaphragm, it should last forever as it gets less use in that application than it would as a potable water pump in a small boat.

If you sent this Mary Day the same pictures you have posted here, I think this is not what I was expecting. The box is still in one piece and I can not even see that any pounding has occured..? Oil I can see, but this is all.

I have to say that I don't see any damage to the pump or packaging beyond the oil... Did it really get in the pump motor and brushes?

One issue to watch for in some installs, are those zip ties chaffing thru hoses. I don't really see many here but when beard marine installed our 900 GPD modular, the installer tightened Some if the zip ties too tight on some of of the thin nylon tubes used to send feedback to the unit. Over the last 4 years, 3 have sprung leaks resulting in the loss of one Air con pump. The other 2 were caught in time when a bilge pump came on. Major PITA to check and correct all the others scattered around the ER.

Interesting the similarity between the image in section 9; page 8 of 54 (page 212 of 266 of PDF) of the above link from AMG's post and the image on page 6 of 45 of the second link from Marmot's post.

The Nameplate in both images are amazingly similar.

Is HRO and Procon the same company?

Now I am even more confused. Exactly what make and model of watermaker do you have?

Why would you buy a CAT high pressure pump if you have that ETD pump that is intended to operate on low pressure water?

There really is a lot of information missing. If it is not the Safari system as AMG referenced and posted the pump drawing why on Earth didn't you say so way back then? This is getting to be a waste of time ...

Generally the zip ties don't cut through the tubing from being too tight. The watermaker lines (if they're flexible) will carry a lot of vibration through them and if the tie wraps are a little loose, it will work as a saw eventually chafing through them.....

As for how to make your watermaker work without all the computer crap......The old school watermakers (like Galleymaid) had a low pressure pump, such as your typical air conditioning pump like a Oberdorfer (with the proper volume), then you had a high pressure pump which in often cases on the 30 gph-50gph units was nothing more than a pressure cleaner pump driven by an electric motor and a belt, you had a manual valve to restrict bypass flow past the membranes and adjust pressure, a pressure gauge that read the pressure going through the membranes and a salinity sensor that shut the system off if salinity was over 500ppm or so.

Hi,

You might well find that the "vibration" you feel is actually pressure pulsations from the plunger type HP pump.

The Pressure Regulating Valve after the membranes is a flow rerstricter which raises the full flow pressure behind it pushng a portion of this flow through the membrane as what we call fresh water.

If I was on the other side of the globe and got a pump with oil on, I would have wiped it off and connected it to see if it was running and working as it should.

If it didn´t I would find out if there was oil inside the motor or if any dent was of harm, before thinking of sending it back.

When I have been sailing legs over several weeks, I am used to fix an average of one to three problems a day with what I have onboard. Therefore I find it a little strange that you after 22 years onboard, not even tried if the new pump is working...