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Heat Exchangers?? Need Advice, PLEASE!

Discussion in 'Carver Yacht' started by Carver38, Apr 24, 2014.

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  1. Marmot, Apr 27, 2014
    #21
    Marmot

    Marmot Senior Member

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    Gray smoke is probably a mixture of lousy injectors, cold engine, and burning lube oil.

    As the OP initially stated, the engine smokes white for short period then clears up. In New Jersey this time of the year that is perfectly normal. Unburned fuel from a cold diesel is crystal clear but when light is refracted through it, it is seen as white ... the same as snow, ice crystals are not white, they are clear. And, combustion produces a weight of water (nearly) equal to the weight of fuel burned and when that exhaust is cooled by cold seawater or meets cold air, it condenses to visible water vapor that we see as white. The fact that it clears up as stated all but proves the sky hasn't fallen yet.

    Use an ultraviolet light to check how your coolant fluoresces, if it glows brightly, disconnect the hose at the spray ring and look at the water in it. If it glows, you have a leak in a heat exchanger. If your coolant doesn't fluoresce well, add a dye tracer (from the auto parts store) and have a look. If you add enough, and the leak is substantial, you should see it in the water leaving the exhaust overboard.
  2. Carver38, Apr 29, 2014
    #22
    Carver38

    Carver38 Member

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    Well, here's the update as determined by my diesel mechanic's inspection and subsequent diagnosis.

    The issue was indeed a failed heat exchanger.

    My "pressure test" simply forced more coolant through the failed exchanger tubes and mixed with the sea-water in the exchanger which then exited through the exhaust.

    No coolant in the engine where it didn't belong, no coolant in the oil, in fact, nothing "surprising" in his opinion at all, given the hours on the HE and the lack of any service, cleaning, or flushing of it at any time since new. There was plenty of corrosion inside when the end caps were removed.

    I have instructed him to replace any any and all hoses that connect from the heat exchanger. Why reuse 23 year old hoses that have to be disconnected (on one end anyway) for the installation of the new HE, right?

    We're going to chemically clean the other engine's cooling system at the same time, in the hope that HE will last at least another season or two. But I'll certainly be keeping a close eye on the coolant levels before and after every run!
  3. Capt J, Apr 29, 2014
    #23
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Very wise to have him change all of the hoses as well.....definately use fresh coolant also. I would try to do both at the same time if they're really old.
  4. Carver38, Apr 29, 2014
    #24
    Carver38

    Carver38 Member

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    Before we refill with fresh coolant, my mechanic recommends we run an acid/water combination through the engines for a 5-6 hour run, after which that process will be flushed out and replaced NOT with antifreeze 50/50, but with rust inhibitor/water combo instead. He suggests I run with this for the rest of the boating season since this combination actually cools better than antifreeze. But of course when it's time to winterize the coolant will be re-installed.

    We're going to do the same thing with the port side....the engine with the surviving HE, which I am not going to replace just yet.......with hoses and labor it's a $1500 job....if I don't NEED it yet, I prefer not to SPEND it yet. The chemical cleaning may buy me a couple seasons, and I have already spent tens of thousands of dollars just getting the boat ready to enjoy this first season. If I can defer replacing the port HE, and if it's still in operable condition, why not wait until it's really needed? I can and will monitor the coolant levels and temps carefully and if I see any losses in fluid start to occur, or higher than normal temps, I'll know the port HE is fried.
  5. Capt Ralph, Apr 29, 2014
    #25
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    If you're trying to get some extra time out of the other HE,, Do not acid rinse it. You may end up cleaning something that's keeping it together. In the meantime time, start couch diving and plan on a new second HE on short notice. You may be a better boy scout with this attitude.

    Rust inhibitor is all you will need this summer. Different ratios of antifreeze (thin & some) are used down here. in the north, i'm sure more lots of antifreeze or draining during the winter.

    So, the hard starting issue, You mechanic check the injector check valve spring?
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