Gelcoat oxidation SHORTCUT-- short term solution ideas?

Roger that U.S.
You know, there is no need to be a sailboat or powerboat-er. You could have both.
I have never seen a joy stick jet drive in action, I drive a Zeus pod and enjoy the joy stick, but like you I started driving sailboats. I try to use the gears and wheel to maneuver as much if not all the time, I like the idea of joysticks as back up, but they are very good.

Be sure and let the painter know what you used, and maybe supply the MSDS. The manufacturer lists Polydimethylsiloxane as an ingredient, which is defined as a silicone compound. There can be paint adhesion problems, so it's best to forewarn the applicator so that sufficient steps are taken to prepare the substrate.

If that's the case, you probably can get away without doing the jet control upgrade.

Hence my previous comments about unnecessarily adding $$ to the painting costs. I hope he's not hit with some "removal/prep" cost add on, and a refusal to guarantee the work unless its done.

He has. Silicone causes almost any paint to lift and the prep has to be to a T.

Given the wide variety of miracle washes, waxes and coatings wouldn't prep with that in mind be a normal part of the painting processes? After all what owner knows everything the previous owner used.

Google vertglass. That is your shortcut. it works. sucks to maintain though, in your case you dont care.

In short, NO. Dealing with silicone you have to repeat that process several times to ensure there is ZERO silicone left on any surface....so LOTS of rags and lots of solvent and lots of times wiping it.

You can also wet sand it, and clear it with Awlgrip clear. It lasts for several years until it starts to peel.

Seems that mean anyone painting a boat after buying it has to wait (how many years) to know whatever the previous owner might have used has worn off. Seems to me more likely it's up to a painter to make sure a hull is properly prepped if they don't want to be repainting at their cost.

I'm certain the OP had good reason, but my thought is that if you know you're painting in a short while why apply it in the first place? It can only add negatives to the ultimate goal which it seems it has. My own thought is that restorer stuff stuff is, as the OP said, a cheap solution for someone who is not going to invest in a quality paint application.

Top Coat F11 is "water based", lasts "3-6 months" and "To remove TopCoat® F11®, you can use aliphatic or aromatic solvents (i.e., glycol ethers, benzene, toluene, hexane) or even a high concentrate Isopropyl Alcohol will break it down based on how much TopCoat® has been applied."
The OP is looking for an easy way to make his hull shine for a couple of months. I can't personally attest to how good or bad it is but per its advertising it fits the bill for what the OP is seeking. With a planned repaint over winter it's the ideal vessel to try the stuff on and I for one will be very interested to learn more about it from a member who has used it rather than from the advertising. If it works it could be bad news for boat waxers. Whatever he puts on will have to be removed in the prep process, but that's why painter prep before painting.
Hopefully, if the OP tries it, he'll update us on how it was to apply, how it looks after applied, how it looks till he hauls and how good or bad it affects the prep and painting process.

DK about my reading comprehension since I missed post #18 but I'll plead busy, lol. I'm impressed, and think I might try it on my vehicles (which are in a lot better shape than that hull. I'd appreciate if you'd post some pics when you haul to see it a couple months later. Also let us know if the painters have and issues. Thanks.