Engine clean up time

Boomer !! When you get it gone, you will be an expert! Let us know the in's an out's when you are done. I would like you to do mine to! Lol
I MAY do mine this winter, BUT I plan to re-do my entire rub rail re- bed and refasten ...install a new teak swim platform, remove both heat exchangers and get them cleaned out, fill in a few blisters, sand and paint the bottom...We are a nutty bunch here on YFs!

Hey ok that is a good idea...but white is hard to find?! Lol
Uhm...what is a Pre-Valve bottle and atomizer? Like building you own spray paint can?

Boomer! All I can say is spray cleaner, lots of elbow grease and many different sizes of scrub brushes , lots of rags and enjoy!! Lol.
Spray nine is good stuff to. I would not use any water, so not to get a lot of soapy oily water in the bilge . Also Joy or Dawn and water is good to clean with to. Such as the bilge or oil pans... also have a shop vac handy to suck up all the shloppin's! Before it get to the bilge pump. Or turn the pump off just incase and clean all up with the Vac. Especially if you need/want to use water.

Exactly. Google "Pre-val". I mistakenly called it Pre-valve. Its two parts are basically a charged rattle can that you screw a glass bottle to with the paint product and color of your choice. It'll spray fully catalyzed urethanes , enamels, varnishes etc. High temp White paint can be found at most auto parts stores.

This, and the paint is around $8 a can. I believe it's rated for around 500F.

Leave it to the automotive section to fix our marine problems. Duplicolor and VHT both have a rattle can line of "very high temp" silica-ceramic coatings that are good up to 2,000 degrees f. and are low cost under $15 . These coatings are specifically made for engine exhaust headers & they come in White amongst other colors and while the White will go on glossy, it will flatten over time with heat but will retain its bright white color and wont come off if the iron casting is prepped in accordance with the manufacturers basic normal prep.