Dripless shaft seals dripping.

I had that problem on an old 44 Striker. Ended up putting a LasDrop system on and never worried about it again.
A better machine shop can make one but it's bux that can go towards a long term fix.

I have had the same Tide Strong seals on for 16 years - first failure this weekend. Hose broke and interrupted the water supply - fried and cracked the housing. This created a small water stream managed by the bilge pump. Having it hauled tomorrow. I intend to replace with their newer Tides Sure Seal model. Very pleased with the past performance of the Tides

I have had Tides swell and lock themselves onto the shaft several times over the years. When they do, they then spin with the shaft and break the water cooling lines. I have had the water cooling line then act as a weedeater and cut various things in the engine room (this all happened at idle speed) before we noticed it. Of all of the various dripless seals I have dealt with over the years, the only ones I keep having issues with are Tide seals.

If the water flow is interrupted that sure can happen. My experience with tides has been good

My owners had a Striker prior to the Donzi- and corrosion issues among other things made them take the stance they would never buy another Striker. Of course that is a bit extreme, but what it means is be careful and look for other items which may warrant your attention to corrosion.

No, just from sitting and lack of use they will swell. One boat was one that hadn't moved in 2 months. I started the motors and let them warm up, I bumped them in gear a few times and one of the tides was locked solid on the shaft and then spun the water cooling line around the entire shaft several revolutions. I had another one eat 60 thousands out of a 1.5" shaft before the lip seal started leaking and we had to replace the shaft. The only dripless I've had major issues with have been Tides. I did have a lip seal on a 35' Cabo start leaking profusely with the bronze bodied dripless they use but there was no shaft damage. I've never had any issues with any of the other Manufacturers, but have had major issues with Tides on 4 different yachts.

Capt J

What swelled - not the lip seal??

I have found crusties & crustie poo to move up the tube and near glue some logs, seal assemblies and shafts to each other. I have thought the small clearance between the shaft and other assemblies contribute to this adhearsion. Lack of use and maintenance would be a lead to failure on any product but the small clearance and flimsy log hoses may be leading to the examples above.
Those lip seals probably need a small assembly to shaft clearance to ensure proper positioning of the seal.
We still use the old fashion adjustable logs with tef/flax packed in. Oh, AND a solid (thick) log hose and big a@$ clamps.

We have lip seal customers that complain about wet & dark stains under their logs. We have found these customers use the heck of their clutches when docking in shallow water and dredge the slip. The fine silt & dark water will leak in most every time for these folks.
Then the guy in the next slip who just backs in, ties up & shuts down quickly never has a problem or a mud plume from under his ship.

The hard Eurethane rubber (or whatever material it is) inside of the actual Tide Seal that rides on the shaft. It swells onto the shaft and then it locks on solid and the entire assembly spins.....I could post a picture, maybe I will later today. I have to transfer it from my phone

Capt J

help me understand that. where is the "eurethane rubber" you are speaking of? Not the lip seal which, I think, is nitrile - the hose??

No the actual body of the Tide seal that rides on the shaft. There is a 2+" section of the body that rides on the shaft itself that keeps the tide seal aligned onto the shaft. If you look at the picture of the entire Tide Seal on their website, the necked down portion is called a "ptfe bearing" that entire section is barely larger than the shaft and rides on the shaft to keep the entire seal assembly aligned. That bearing swells and freezes/locks onto the shaft solid. I've had it happen 4 different times on 4 different boats. (It usually does it on boats that sit), when it does it the entire Tide assembly spins with the shaft instead of being stationary, breaks off the water cooling hoses wherever it can and spins them like a weedeater, and spins inside of the silicone rubber shaft bellow.

Gotcha, thanks. fortunately I don't sit much. Even when I am just starting the engines to circulate oil, I do a quick in and out with the gears just to move things. Ive had a good experience with Tides so I will stick with 'em. thanks

Yep, That's what I was trying to explain. Crusties and junk get up there and near glue the assembly to the shaft. I also figure, when the small water line from the engine gets clogged, this area may not get rinsed much. Our slip dredgers just blow more silt in.

i use Chatfield dripless seals in my boat is 10 year old and has never leaked you can adjust the seals to get a better fit if they do start to drip

I have the same rudder setup on my 44 Striker. Very easy for a machine shop to make. Just bore out. Cut the threads and drill a few holes for the pin wrench. Just be sure to tell them it is probably BSP pipe thread not American. Contact me if you need any other info on these boats.