Chiller help

The start issue most likely is aggravated by temperature so when you do the current in rush test the engine room needs to be at temperature. The in rush current will let you know which way to proceed but could be something as simple as a temperamental circuit breaker in the genset.

Its a normal plumbing circuit to have chiller loop "make up water" or the vessels pressurized fresh water system plumbed into the chilled water circuit. If the chiller loop was commissioned correctly with Food grade glycol at inception than it will still remain in the chilled water loop unless the system has had a constant leak and make up water was used extensively. The dumbed down systems have a auto regulator on the make up side of the loop and over time the regulator will fail allowing your chilled water loop to over pressurize and blow cruddy loop water all over the place. Murphys law...

The Glycol in your chiller loop doesn't care about the geographical location of the vessel but rather helps lower the freeze point of the loop from your chiller plates or if your freeze up controls go south on you. Glycol also helps thermal transfer or conductance of the loop from the chiller plates.

This, and I haven't been on a yacht with chillers that didn't slowly lose water somewhere in the chiller loop and make up water needed to be added every 1-3 months. With so many hose connections and hoses routed throughout the entire boat, they tend to leak a little at a connection somewhere and considering most connections are hidden inside insulation, it's hard to find. IF you have a leak so large that you're constantly adding make up water, then you have a problem and need to find the leak.

Hello Im new here not sure how to start a new thread, anyhow I have been installing a cruisair self contained unit on my chris that was gave to me, basically with missing parts. I have everything installed with a new 3 Knob switch panel, My question is what on the 3 knob panel turns on the reversing valve? I may have it wired incorrectly cant find wiring diagram for older 1980s stuff. As of right now when I go from FAN to RUN the reversing valve comes on right away, I thought the WARM/COOL thermostat knob should do that, so what happens is it will heat fine then compresser cuts off for maybe 5 seconds tries to restart and trips breaker, so Im thinking its wired wrong, again this project I had to piece togather and Ive done well so far but having this issue with wiring. I haven't ruled out low Freon either. Also unit will not cool unless I unhook wire to Reversing valve, as I said I thought the control of reversing valve should be done in thermostat, Please correct me if Im wrong and Thanks for any help.
Jamey

Thanks!

All sounds good but I certainly wouldn't go to a single chiller. If you lose that you have no air conditioning through the entire boat and possibly for 2 weeks if you need to order a new chiller.

+2000000

An A/C compressor needs 2 to 5 minutes so the high side and low side pressures can equalize or the internal self resetting overload protection device will open, you'll hear a click. After about 5 minutes of cooling off you'll hear it click closed . Depending on how close the breaker is sized to the LRA (locked rotor amps) the breaker may also kick . This is called short cycling, all modern cooling and heat/cool thermostats have a delay built into them. If your thermostat or control device does not have this built in you must wire a delay device in the circuit ,I prefer adjustable ones, say 1 to 5 minutes. One more thing, the delay device can be on the primary power supply 240 volt but the low voltage delays are much cheaper and smaller in size and go into the control circuit which I prefer