CAT 32 Aftercooler removal and test..why?

I Din't say anything about a Keel cooler...………..And the boat would do the same speed as any planning luxury yacht or sport fish .

Where did you get 8 knots from? just make it up? Engine builders got you,for now, until a better system is built. They can charge outrageous prices and demand crazy maintenance schedules.

I'm also been looking into propane/ Electric. I know propane doesn't have the energy density as #2 fuel oil, but would remove all problems with carbon & soot and nothing grows in it.

The only way I know to cool the motors besides raw water cooling is keel cooled. What is so wrong with them sea water cooled? It's a minor cost of doing business. You're planning on a stainless plate on the bottom of the boat and running the cooling through it? How do you attach it.

As far as propane...….UMMMMM, how and where are you going to refuel?

Propane trucks have a reel with at least 200 feet of hose. refill at almost any marina.

As to Mapism's questions : I don't know of any, I would have to do a clean sheet design & engineer job. A lot has already been done in my head and some fluid dynamics software for verification.

Probably what most will do on low hour engines.

Fair enough, I did wonder.

By and large, I'm rather skeptical that what you have in mind is feasible in a planing boat, where the ratio between the heating dissipation needs (which are obviously driven by the power output) and the wet surface available under the bottom is immensely higher, compared to displacement vessels.
Besides, you would still need a huge (relatively to the boat size) dry stack for the exhaust, which is also unheard of, in a planing boat.

But I never dared doing any even just tentative math.
So, as much as I remain intuitively skeptic, I have no evidence to tell that it's impossible, either.
All the best for your attempt, and if you will want to share its development here, I for one will be interested to read about it.

Perhaps it’s mitigation against another class action or other lawsuit .
They lost (eventually) first time round .
So by saying remove and test every 2 and replace as a chuck away part every 6 if one new versions included does indeed surfer catastrophic corrosion.....that’s there cop out .
Problem I guess is quality control of the sub manufacturers making the parts .
Dissimilarity of metal components etc , drain downs n situ leading to anodes high n dry depending on the instal and usage.
Too many variables going forwards to trust Joe public skippers / owners from getting themselves into a engine bang situation from a leaky cooler .....then coming at CAT lawyer armed and ready .

Never been a fan of individual pencil anode protection along with dissimilar metals= corrosion inevitably.

Not a fan of pencil zincs either. With the right materials and design would not be an issue, just pull and clean as needed. Apparently Cat has no confidence in their aftercoolers under warranty.

Pascal,
about your experience with 3412E ACs cleaning.
Is it because the 3412E has coolant cooled ACs vs raw water cooling.
Trying to gather information.

PS : happen to be interested in a couple of 3412E boats(MY) both built in 2002-2004, engine hours from 2200 to 3000.

Thanks

Less hours causes more deterioration on coolers if you are in a high salt environment. I was instructed to flush my motors with fresh water if they are going to be inactive for a few weeks or more. Those baby's (coolers) start leaking and by by cylinder liners. Oil samples are your friend

Did you plumb a freshwater connection to flush the aftercooler?

That would be the grown up solution but no. I just stuck a running hose in the closed strainer basket. This came professionally recommended by Tim the Cat man.

Hey, Tim is the Cat man! I don't get how that worked, you saying on the input side?

Close the intake sea cock
Open the strainer basket lid
Insert running fresh water hose
Start engine and high idle for 1 minute or so
Repeat on opposite motor
Get a cold beer and clean up the water you just sprayed all over the engine room
Sleep well knowing the corrosive salt is not attacking the seals and soft metals

LOL LOL!, that is crude but I guess it will work. Did Tim really tell you to do that? I'm still laughing.

He sure did. Every time we spend the day criticizing someone’s machinery I pump him for as much information as possible.
He is the best. When he is done the seller does not want the boat back!

Seller says "but they were running so good"! He is the best, used him 2 times. He finds problems a computer can't see. He will give you a Cat education while surveying, saved us from making a big mistake twice, when the computer was saying "all good."

Agreed. Compare a Pantropic pre purchase inspection to Tim’s report. Hard to believe they are the same motors. Every time I spend a day or two with him I run home and have mods done to my old 3196’s. He has cost me a fortune.
His fluid samples include coolant and hydraulics. All good to know for future maintenance.

He is way ahead of any Cat surveyors I've seen. I had a Cat dealer survey a pair of 3412's, only time he spent in the engine room was hooking up his computer. He spent the whole sea trial sittng in the cockpit. I would not have know the difference had I not talked to Tim and learned how he does his surveying.

I have a few TC stories all good.
The first time I met him my buyer had hired him. I was not familiar with him. Tim was on board the boat for less than an hour when I arrived. Clean late model boat with less than 300 hours. When I stick my head in the engine room and determines I represent the buyer he tells me the boat shakes like a wet dog. I am in denial wondering how he could make this determination since we not only have not left the dock but the motors have not been started.
Tim pointed out cracked brackets, exhaust issues...
He was right. The underwater exhaust needed to be re engineered.

LOL, you might try the following alternative, in order to skip the cleaning bit:
Fit a valve on the strainer lid as in the first pic, with a rapid hose connector (one time job);
Connect a hose as in the second pic;
Open both the lid and hose valves;
Job done - ready to flush the engine.
Easy enough for me to do it almost after every boat use.