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Can’t get my props off

Discussion in 'Props, Shafts & Seals' started by 993RSR, Jun 4, 2020.

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  1. 993RSR, Jul 15, 2020
    #41
    993RSR

    993RSR Senior Member

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    To drop the rudders you would need to remove the cockpit and a 635 ga diesel tank. That is not happening. It has been suggested that the prop taper in the prop is shot to the point the tech that installed them 5 months ago was concerned about them staying in place.
  2. alvareza, Jul 15, 2020
    #42
    alvareza

    alvareza Senior Member

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    Maybe cut the prop hub lengthwise
  3. olderboater, Jul 15, 2020
    #43
    olderboater

    olderboater Senior Member

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    Much like taking down a tall tree. You cut multiple grooves around the hub, then cut a piece or pieces out. You do it slowly and gradually until eventually you can remove it. I still think by now though there is likely extensive damage to the shaft.
  4. 993RSR, Jul 15, 2020
    #44
    993RSR

    993RSR Senior Member

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    The prop guys who gave up yesterday are coming back tomorrow. He created some fitted plate that will allow him to use a bigger puller. I will be there and take photos. Maybe video. The shafts were perfect when we did all the running gear work in Palm Beach Gardens 4 or 5 months ago. Can’t imagine why they would be trash now.
  5. Capt Ralph, Jul 15, 2020
    #45
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    If either of the shops have been pushing against the shaft threaded end, it could get damaged here.
    The taper may also have a gaul now.
    Ensure the tip of the shaft is studied well when the props come off.
  6. Capt Ralph, Jul 15, 2020
    #46
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I remember a small snail bote inboard prop had to come off this way.
    Used a sawsall. That bronze did prove tough. 2 long blades used up. Before cutting thru to the shaft, a couple of taps and wheel in our hands.
    Sadly the prop just had crab trap damage and could of been repaired.
    After cutting, just an expensive story and paper weight.
  7. BRyachts, Jul 15, 2020
    #47
    BRyachts

    BRyachts Member

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    The new props should be blued/fitted to your shafts anyways. And after all this banging around I'd do an indicator check of the shafts/taper to check runout.
  8. NYCAP123, Jul 15, 2020
    #48
    NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    In all my years I've only been involved in changing a few props, and never had a problem. This thread has been an eye opener. Does anybody apply Never-seize when mounting props? Do you think it would help?
  9. tusindtak, Jul 15, 2020
    #49
    tusindtak

    tusindtak Member

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    If you want to get the prop off and have given up on saving the shaft, cut/piercing rods will create hole in the shaft at least 10” deep. Get good ground directly on the shaft. It is very fast and uses a phosphorus material in a hollow tube, exothermic. Just need a small amp dc arc. It is not the air arc carbon rods that need 400 amps to cut. We used to buy from Caterpillar, but I don’t see them on their site. Welder Supply distributors should have them. The pierced hole shrinks and relieves the tightness. Couple of sites: https://bakersgas.com/products/arca...MIpfHylKDQ6gIVsCCtBh0Q4geUEAQYBCABEgJPPfD_BwE
    Or
    https://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/Alloys/Welding/Maintenance-and-Repair/Cut-Rod.aspx.
    Good luck.
  10. Capt Ralph, Jul 15, 2020
    #50
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Sadly, that backfires the tight static fit. Acts like grease. Then the keys take a hammering every time the clutch is engaged.
    In just a few tries, the key will dissect (slice) in half.

    In an extra ed thing I remember two perfect flat plates laid together. You could not pull them apart. This is the idea in the smooth surfaces in the wheel bore / shaft. The key just keeps it in position till everything is pressed out (finger oil, yard cat hair, bad breath). Then, it does not move,, ever..
    It is tapered so when it does move, on removal, a micro inch,,, it's loose.

    In the other direction, high performance sport fish boats have tried to epoxy wheels on. Found they also, lost that static fit of metal on metal in the taper. The latest process is to press fit (Prop-Smith or like) the wheel on and epoxy the nuts and threads.

    I mentioned above, a week ago; Hot, sun baked wheels jammed on cool shafts is the worse to do.
    Further, I just mentioned above, the shaft taper may have a gaul (think of ringed roofing nails, that never come out ).

    This is going to be a bear fight. That blue tip wrench needs to apply lots of heat real fast to the prop hub, before that heat goes into the shaft.

    Another idea, heat the prop hub fast, then hit it with water. Repeat this a few times with loose nuts. That prop may walk off the taper.
  11. Capt J, Jul 15, 2020
    #51
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    I'd cut the hubs of the props to remove them from the shafts, long before I'd do any of that.
  12. PacBlue, Jul 15, 2020
    #52
    PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    You have no access to your tiller arms that hold the rudders in place?
  13. DOCKMASTER, Jul 15, 2020
    #53
    DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    Sorry to hear of your challenges. When the guy attempted to remove them today was he just tightening threads/bolts as pulling force or did he use a hydraulic head as the pulling force? I hope he is using hydraulics or plans to when he returns.
    I also find it very strange that this difficulty exists on both props? Makes me very suspect of what they did when they put them on a few months ago. Sure sounds like something gauled.
  14. mapism, Jul 16, 2020
    #54
    mapism

    mapism Senior Member

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    Apologies if I missed that in some previous post, but what's the boat brand which is being discussed?
    Unless that tank was retrofitted, maybe?
    I came across some boats where the internal rudders accessibility left something to be desired, but such installation is beyond belief! o_O
  15. 993RSR, Jul 16, 2020
    #55
    993RSR

    993RSR Senior Member

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    Props are off!!! Yoo hoo... So if the hubs had so little contact with the shaft why were they so tough to get off. Prop guys said the keyways were twisted. These props are 20 year old Teignbridge that have been repaired/reconditioned 15 times over the years. Ready for the recycling and on with the new Veems as we speak.
    Boat is a Eastbay 49 but its not a boat issue.

    rennmisc42.JPG
    prop free JR 49.jpg
  16. 993RSR, Jul 16, 2020
    #56
    993RSR

    993RSR Senior Member

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    yes they returned with custom machined heavy plate to use the hydraulic pump. Even then they needed heat and a few taps.
  17. DOCKMASTER, Jul 16, 2020
    #57
    DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    Obviously the key ways being twisted are a contributing factor. Further, as others suggested earlier in the thread I suspect you had an excessive interference fit issue whereby your props were warm and shafts were cold when they got put on.
  18. DOCKMASTER, Jul 16, 2020
    #58
    DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    Too bad the yard or whoever attempted first did not have this equipment, would have saved you a lot frustration and concern. This is pretty standard stuff. We prefer to use hydraulics vs trying to apply force with a bolt/thread.
  19. 993RSR, Jul 16, 2020
    #59
    993RSR

    993RSR Senior Member

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    Props in the sunny pickup bed and the shafts at 70 degrees maybe. Seminole was pretty toasty.
  20. DOCKMASTER, Jul 16, 2020
    #60
    DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    Forgot to mention in my last; Make sure you get someone that knows how to do a proper and thorough blue fit of your new props to your old shafts. This takes experience and patience. Do not settle on just an OK fit here. Be prepared to pay someone to do it right. I also strongly recommend you do an NDT of your shafts from the start of the taper through the end. Now is the time to reassure yourself the shafts are 100% in the most vulnerable areas.
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