Aft bilge pump lets water in?!

The rule super switch, or any rule switches build in the last 10 years are worthless. I redid all my bilge pump system 5 years ago with 5 new 3700s, rule switches, new wiring, new alarm panel etc. I have already replaced 2 of the switches, one of which burned one of the pump by constantly sending some low voltage to the pump

the only switches I use now are ultra switches. Yes they’re almost three times the price but worth it. Some of them are 15 years old on the lazzara 110 I run and still working great

I'm not sure if/how easily you can find them in the US, but these folks build some bulletproof diaphragm pump for nautical applications.
Short of bricks, they can suck just about anything from bilges - or holding tanks, whatever.
Capacity of the attached models goes from 400 to 1900 GPH, but they may build also larger ones, IDK.

Of course they are larger/heavier/more expensive than those Rule toys, because, well, toys they are not.
But as opposed to submersible pumps (in reply also to CJ comment), they can be placed wherever convenient, routing just a hose with its suction strainer to the bilge bottom.
Being fully self-priming, they will pick up to the last drop of water regardless of placement.

The switches topic instead was already debated in this old thread, just in case anyone is interested.

Sorry my friend, I read American (south/eastern). That PDF does nothing for me.

IMO, they are a great switch, just leaves more water in the bilge. Kind of counter to the thread?

More details are available in their website, of which there's also the EN version.
And according to which, Maritime Diesel Electric in Tamarac is one of their distributors.

BTW, they just announced also a cable reel system, though I guess it'll be hard for them to compete with Glendinning in their home Country...

The Ultra switches are the only ones that I use. Any discharge capable of back-siphoning (like on the transom) should have a simple check valve installed in a position where it can be maintained. Helm should have an activity light to indicate pump function. You can see cycles and note short cycles that could be indicative of a problem.

What brand/model pump?

here is what I did on my 53 seven or eight years ago, it was the first I did before installing the chillers and repowering .

I ripped all the old pumps and wiring and ran new harnesses to each location.
Each compartment has a rule 3700, float switch, high water float switch. The panel has a breaker for each pump, an over ride manual switch, a red high water and pump running LEDs. Plus a green showing each pump breaker is on and a breaker for the high water alarms. I left a spare in case I want to add an extra pump aft and included controls and LEDs for the shower sumps. Haven’t gotten around to adding a buzzer… one day

I sleep better at night

I've been fortunate to have had no failures on the Ultra's over the past 20 years or so. Four are aboard now, with two spares tucked away. My theory is no failures are due to having the spares.

Also added a very nice dry bilge system that soaks up any remnant water and keeps everything dry as a bone when I'm not running. That's terrific confidence to have when away from a metal boat...dry is your friend...