Outstanding pictures. Glad things are working your way. My 12v71 / TD 514 gear slid straight back (on made-up wood rails) so I could remove the flywheel and replace the rear oil seal. Long threaded rod pulled the gear back into place (slowly). Been 7 years now and it's still pulling strong. ,rc
We put in a full day today. We slapped on the tranny, aligned the engine to the coupler, put on the air boxes, Turbos and exhaust. It wasn't easy but everything looks good. Turned her on a little while ago and she started up within 1 second of given here fuel and starter motor. All pressures and temps looked good. We didn't run her because it was already dark, but Im sure she is fine. I think the culprit was definitely that 6 inch rope we caught 4 years ago in the Abacos.. Thanks again for everyone's input. Will post a few more pictures..
Well, Think this thread is pretty much over. I did a sea-trial yesterday and everything looked, felt and sounded good. Did not take her to WOT, but went to 1925 rpms. I usually operated around 1850 doing about 18-20knots depending on how much fuel I am carrying. I did have some oil leak out of the cylinder site windows. When I removed them to see the pistons all went up and down, I probably did not seat them right, or tightend them right. I have order a new set for that side. See you all later!
Hi, Thanks for keeping the thread updated with your photos and text. It is a complete story and adds to the knowledge base that is YF.
Of interest, When you peeked at your pistons, did you get any quality viewing of the liners and rings? How they look? I have learned the hard way, those old gaskets will leak when re-used. There is 20+ psi on those air boxes and any micro leak of slobber will find it's way out. New gaskets with just a wipe of grease on clean surface areas will fix ya rite up. Common gaskets, any good D/D shop should have them on hand. ,rc
I was able to see all the cylinder walls on that side and all but one had the crosshairs on them. The Last one had a small vertical wear.
Cool. Just keep that in the back of your mind or in a personal log. In a couple of years, take another peek at that last one. Maybe next oil change, pop a few more. It took me about a year, a few at a time, before I finished inspecting all of mine. ,rc
Yeah.. absolutely. The easy part is popping them off, the hardpart is tourning the engine by hand. I guess I can use the starter and turn of the rack.
Hi, It is a good practice to have the rack at the stop possie even when turning by hand. Is there anywhere on the bell housing where you can get in with a screwdriver on the ring gear or can you get a 3/4 Drive socket on the front pulley bolt - always turn it to the right when facing the engine from the front or you might loosen it.
Hi, You used the term turn off the rack which assume means the same The last Detroit I worked on had mechanical injectors and a cable to pull to stop it via a small lever on top of the Governor hsg.
You can also snap off the part that turns the raw water pump as well if you turn it backwards. As for the OP. I would yank and check the injector on the 1 cylinder that's showing the strange wear.