Having a son who is a boat painter working with various products he seems rather taken with Awlgrip most commonly used on aluminium superyachts he has worked on. Mind you your point about different paints having different spraying characteristics tends to influence painters' opinions and they lean to the familiar naturally enough. Rarely does the painter have a say anyway working on the $20m plus vessels as the original coating tends to dictate the product used, especially if you listen to the tech reps dire warnings about changing. Used to drive Fords (not an AC Shelby Cobra but) - currently have a Merc 4 x 4 diesel. About 10 secs to 60 I reckon!
2 points: 1) Imron, when we had our truck fleet, was ideal for aluminum cabs but pinholed like crazy on steel trailer frames. It promoted rust and peeled in looseleaf-sized sheets even on the best American steel that Heil used in Lancaster, PA. Put it on a Poorlybilt or a Freightshaker and it lasted well past boneyard days into the scrapyard. 2) Awlgrip is fantastic on fiberglass but isn't worth a tinker's darn on metals. IMO.
Obomb Well, whatever... today Homer was watching TV, Obomb came on... stated in his speach: 'We plan to give more favorable school loan pay-off incentives for those who join the public sector. I wonder what Henry Ford would have thought of this remark? What do you think of this remark? What message is he sending?
This reminds me of the quote attributed to Sir Winston Churchill, "If/When you're going through h#ll, keep going." Your project is an inspiration to all of us who have a mechanical project of age which is worth doing.
Yes & No.. Maybe Yes... holds better on fiberglass, all paint does it seems. Super yachts are often sprayed wth Awlgrip. The big issues arise in places of dissimilar metal contact. One solution is to Tef Gel every place stainless meets the aluminum as there is a slight dissimilar metal quotient. But it is so hard Awlgrip.... Here is the repair trick... when you get a bubble, get it out. Spray same color, then clear border with Awlcraft.. it rubs well and you will never see it... but it does have issues from time to time.. correct, one fo the drawbacks to alumium not proerly cared for or properly prepped priro to Awlgrip... frankly, AlexSeal is probably a nice improvement.. Imron is real old technology.. so the pros do say. The hate spraying it to.. deadly stuff, but much more repariable than Awlgrip. Awlgrip is a Linear Poly.. different chemistry.. hard and real shine.
Oh that's funny WatJam... Watch this! The Repbulic will be saved. Democracy will be tested like never before in November. The Amercian people will come out and vote mid-term like never before... Let discretion be the better half of Valor. Each viewer can draw their own conclusion.. Homer is not getting into religions. Rather let viewers conclude what they will.... Survey Says: Watch this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrA9zj94NuU
Thank you Seafarer There are so many people reading these posts.. hope they enjoy/learn/laugh.. and as always, we are looking for new people to join, add their thoughts, share their storiies, their Roamer pictures.. and if they are thinking of trying to find one? I am telling you it's not easy.. still waiting for someone to check out that 41 in Alexandria Bay/Bonnie Castle on the St. Lawrence... Sheesh, it looks so nice. Nothing wrong with steel if it is a good one. They will out-cut aluminum in a tough swell I think.
Welcome to Washington Uhhhhhg,... like we all jumped out of plane, landed Monument gluteus maximus bulls-eye squared..... ahhhh.
Assuming there wasn't some flaw in the preparation process, it sounds as if the primer was more the problem than the paint. I'm no expert on this sort of thing, but it seems to me that the paint adheres (or doesn't) to the primer. Even on an epoxy-primed metal boat, the paint is only in direct contact with plastic. It seems as if, from the paint's perspective, it shouldn't matter what material is under the primer.
Paint/Primer--Oh yes it does... It can bubble from either. Often where there is dissimilar metal contact, the reaction of the two metals can pop filler, if the filler pops, up goes the filler and the paint together. Improperly cleaned primer, even a finger print, can keep the paint from properly adhering to the the primer. In such even, the separtion from the Awlgrip and and primer does occur. Always rub clean with Dupont Clean prep, not PrepSol. I beleive Roamer welding material/alumnium may indeed be not 5086 welds, this is our theory as to why areas underrubrails in concert with inverted moisture collection does/can cause bubbling in spots after time. 545 it well after alondining. Never leave raw aluminium exposed to air for more than 20 minutes is the rule.. get it covered fast. In this event, (a bubble) best catch it fast, cut it out, prep, and shoot original color Awlgrip. Then, after light merge spot buffing, clear over place where new and old Awlgrip meet with clear AWCRAFT. Awlcraft will rub-out like good autobody paint.. Awlgrip will lose some of its luster and "moon" at paint intersection points over time if not cleared at intersection repair point. Where paints meet, roll back tape/round i.e. to avoid hard line.. buff with professiaonl 3M products and foam pad at perhaps 1800-2000 RPM. Do not clear over white Awlgrip, it has an amber UV protectant which will amber the white a bit. Colors yes, clear over will be fine and enhance glass. It is ok to add 15% clear to Awlgrip white to enhance gloss a bit however. My opinions are not mine here.. have speoke at length with the painters and Anso Nobel.. hey, call them see what they say.. why listen to me.. I am merely a parrot who does my DD. Some of what I write is real experience, but much is "ParrotSpeak" from the pros. NEVER shrink wrap on Awlgrip, mositure will collect under it and pop the paint from the primer.. Awlgrip it likes airflow. Awlgrip is funny stuff, but hard as Hades is Hot... Still, I believe Alexseal is the new play.. Imron is anciet technology. I think Ford used it on the Edsel.
Hi, In my experience on new constructions and refits, the life of the paint that has been buffed is reduced markedly and it starts to go patchy/dull and yellows in some places in a very short period of time when exposed to the elements that a two season boat is subject to. I sometimes pay surprise visits when the Painters are working if I suspect they are doing this. I will refuse to accept any AwlGrip work that has been buffed at all. The paint itself has enough quality issues these days, it doesn't need any help to deteriorate quicker than it does by itself.
You are absolutely correct K1W1 What I am saying is to clear Awlcraft over Awlgrip repair/intersections which you can buff and is made to be buffed. Linear Poly like Awlgrip clear rises to the top while drying. If you buff it lightly within two days and do not do do much you wil still have the clear. But your comment is 100% correct about time and endurance. This comes from Fed Sommers..the Awgrip rep. Do not wax Awlgrip... use Awlcare. The best thing to clean Awlgrip with is 3M adhesive cleaner.. works great and not too strong.. DO NOT USE lacquer thinner... it will work but is too strong. This is the flaw in Awlgrip's linnear Poly which has made Alexseal the new paint of choice as it is more buffable yet still hard... great combo product and the shiniest of all! Talk to that German chemist who made it.. call Tripp Nelson... you will here about this quality.
Roamer Pics Here are some pics of our 69 38 Regal Sedan. Homer should like this; We bought it last year - on the Fourth of July!
She's sweet Watjam! You have a full load of fuel and water? She is sitting a bit low in the rear, or is that just a few hours supply of beer? Is she steel or aluminum? Steel does sit two inches lower as it weighs 4,000 pounds more. The way to reduce photos is to load a free piece of software called INFRANVIEW. When the image is in the INFRANVIEW frame, got to the top of the frame and click on IMAGE. Then scroll down to "Resize." Click on it and check first box on top right to resize. Then name "Save As" (Make Picture Name) Then submit. Save it to your Document or Photo files. Then go back to your "Manage Attachments" of this forum software/ browse the file for the name you named the resized photo and it will take if it is 200MB or less. Don't feel dumb, I had the exact same problem and could not figure it out until another forum member told me this. I b_tched about the software's lack of clarity to the webmaster about this VERY SAME issue and basically he made me feel like a dope. I did not feel like a dope. I deal with software all the time and can honestly say that people in the tech development world are the absolute worst communicators on planet earth (not their native planet)... like the brilliant math teacher who wore white plastic squeeky shoes and could not teach. We all had a few of those... Or, like having a twin screw boat with only one engine running in big swells. If I offended any tech people, I am sorry, but go back to school and take a few humanities, philosophy or psychology classes.. life does not wholly revolve around Pack Man, PDA's and Star Trek re-runs... you make "regular"(an acronym for "normal") people nuts. We all know the breed. I live in Northern Virginia near AOL.. that place has a zillion of them.... I think it's controlled autism to be honest with you... it sure is something? I mean, I'd rather have my wisdom teeth pulled sans funnygas then go to one of their parties. Don't worry, many of us had the same problem.. if software explained things in the right/application places we would not have these issues. Your frustration is a common issue here for folks who have not done it before I can assure you. Maybe we will make tech people MC's at parties so they can know what it feels like to be inept or a "boat out of water." In sum, "differnet horses for differnet courses." Remeber The Flick "Revenge of the Nerds?" That was the theme of the movie. Sorry man, any viewers out there who have contracted to build a website or two... bet you wanted to kill those guys before you were done if you ever got done? If they are married, they probably sleep in bunk beds. OK, got that one off my shoulders. Homer
We went to a RustOleum two-stage paint on trailer frames and Mack steel cabs, stuck with Imron on aluminum cabs (Mack CruiseLiners, Peterbilts, Frieightliners) and had no problems with either. Around '79-81 Freighliner put steel face panels low on the front of their cabovers to reduce stone dings and metal replacement - factory Imron jobs would blow off the steel within 12 months, while the aluminum Imron jobs would last 5-6 years with nothing more than weekly waxing and maybe one compounding in the life of the truck. I cannot advise or advocate more strongly against Imron on any ferric surface, no matter what the prep. It just never worked for us, with multiple manufacturers in multiple applications in hundreds of instances.
Thank you Homer, I shall overcome - (technology, that is) You know, I thought she looked low in the saddle too and no she's not steel. The previous owner placed the water tank up forward - under the dinette seat, he must have thought the same thing. all that's left back there is a big ol' 6.5 kohler generater that I never use. Thought about eliminating that and going with inverter. Did the sedans sit a little deeper because of the extra weight? More pics to come (thanks to Homer!)