35 Bertram: full restoration & repower

fitting the tower hard top

photo 1 shows the way we notched the top to slip thro the front tower tubes, if you look close you can see the center is filled with what was removed ll the pieces will be glassed in for final install. the 2 photo gives you an idea where the radar will end up and the 3'rd photo you can see the way the mounting style will allow the hard top to over hang the tubing with out having a two piece tower....

getting dussty with the cockpit hardtop

sanding is fun
first shot is of tommy filling pin holes the 2'nd photo show the two top we are messing with. the 3'rd shot is of the final sand b4 hi build primer.

in stalling the top

photo 1 is how I patched the cuts in the tuna tower hard top. photo 2 & 3 is the cockpit hard top half installed bolted to the salon roof and held up by 2x4 till the pipe is welded.

here fishy fishy I see you

so photo 1 & 2 show the glass window in the built in bate tank it will be lit with and ocean led....

finaly the cabin

the first two photos show the start of the build and the unfinished mahogany... the last photo show the unfinished and tow coat of 5 to 1 epoxy

epoxy it all

nothing will ever bend or even if that window gets left open...

gimbeling the stove

in photo 1,,, I removed the trim on the side of the seaward stove & gimbeled the stove you can also see the teak trim going in and the quilted maple down stars in the birth the 2nd photo is a close up of the maple..

finishing up the cockpit hard top

so shot one shows why not to use a spade drill to drill holes ended up braking my hand when the bit stuck,, photo 2 and 3 show the legs that support the back of the hard top...

sorry heres the photos....

Time for the yacht surveyor

well I need to put some new photos up... I had the bertram bottom and seacocks and pluming checked by a yacht surveyor, kinda a 50% survey so I can finish up dock side.. All he rely had to say was there were no voids in the hull and to make a sticker for the factory fuel tank listing a build date. We chatted a little about how I was going to run the ac/dc system and he was on his way... I stressed it for a week but turns out my friends have been harder on me about how to build this boat then the surveyor, my friends do work on mega yachts and are well payed so there is no real surprise.

I will be splashing in soon... I'll post some finished bilge pluming photos and pic's of the ac/dc system being installed. happy thanks giving every one

Thank you & Thanks for the info.. I'll have to look into that, I do need a float for my main fuel tank as well as the fresh water...

I used a fire retardant epoxy resin on the aluminum auxiliary/bio diesel fuel tanks. I don't think it needed to be fire retardant seeing as it was a uscg approved fuel tank to start with but a friend hooked me up with the resin so I used it..... I've hear bad things about polyester resin tanks with gas/bio/svo but have been told its fine for diesel, vinyl ester or epoxy should be fine for almost any fuel.

That's if you were talking about the tank lay up... I have pored 200 or so gallons on the boat & parts, I have used all kinds of resin they all have there place. As you may know as long as you never put polyester or vinyl ester over epoxy you'll be ok and if you need to fill more than 1/4 inch use an epoxy fairing compound.....

one of the biggest trick I have found is, SUPER STICKY PAST made by ebond!!!!!!!!!!!!!
this is a thickened 2 part epoxy that will hold epoxy soaked 50oz tri axil carbon fiber upside down.... it also gives you fill and can help flatten tricky lay ups and by the time you roll out all the air the slime will be raping the fibers giving you a crazy epoxy bond.

There is also faststone after you put this epoxy stuff on you can spray it with water and rub it flat with you bare hand un cured & drys wet!!!!!

Most of my fill I make using micro spheres or micro balloons and epoxy..... it will not crack or shrink like polyester fillers.. You can add a lot of dust for ultra light fill or keep it wet and strong.. I have a 3 inch thick piece of light fill that dryed in the mixing cup it is very hard to brake with a hammer. but its not cheep and you can't go back to polyester once you use it......

wow I need to post some photos.

here's a start... rub rail I went pvc with rubber insert.. stainless is nice but this will not dent,,,,

mahogany salon door

start to glue up... the top is not glued till the glass is installed

little of this little of that

gen ellbow being awlgriped, both the search lights, and the unfinished panel the bottom panel has no epoxy on it yet that is the color differs..

this is all old I have to take some new photos,,,,

more photos

I try and post some new photos every night till were up to date on the project.....

This is when we hinged and cut the hard top... I started by taking wood blocks with the hinges foot print.. the one inch mahogany blocks were glassed into the top and bottom of the hardtop then they were cut in two a 1/2 slit thro the center all the way thro the hardtop... I welded two pieces of stainless angle to the bottom of the hinge so the angle sat flat on each side of the hinge mounting aria this way the two pieces of angle act as a door jam and two 1/4 angel welded to each side of the hinge to keep it a one way deal. it adds up to 1/2 inch of stainless between you and the cockpit deck if you walk out on the end of the hardtop...photo one shows the hardtop down the othe two show it up for the firs time.... a happy moment...

plummin the last holes in here

there are 2 gen's going in her so there's a fun little system set up....

more stuff on the deck

still has the glue from price tag's on some of the stainless,,,lol

touch up paint...

shiny, shiny hard top....

new toy

20' cig next project