A new forumite whose first post resurrects an 11 years old thread, only to give a wrong advice. That's remarkable to say the least... But welcome anyway!
You can’t go from 32v to 12v without rewiring. Down to 24v is ok. The problem is that in many cases you will have old wiring and possible questionable connections which will make any issue worst Lighting is not a worry due to low wattage LEDs but I certainly wouldn’t run critical stuff like bilge pumps on 24v and old wiring.
Ah, one of my thingies, I luv air starters. Ingersoll Rand makes most of them but there are others. One of my favorite boats was an old Huckins that on the bridge, you would hit a switch and the Speed Aire compressor would start charging a cast iron, 100 gallon bottle with 1" air hoses to the mains. In this time, you would slack some lines, check the weather, continue your personal chemical experimentation producing ammonia. Then, Hit the air heater and engage the air starter,,, wwrrrreeerrrreeerrrreeeaaa, rruummpphhaaa. Gad I luv the sound of air starters. Now one main is running, Finish that coffee and lite up the other,, wwrrrreeerrrreeerrrreeeaaa, rruummpphhaaa. We luv boats that make lots of good sounds and belch black smoke. Yep, Rowinco would start on over 10 year old fuel on her air starters. I mis that pig.. Oh, Back on topic,, By the time you invest in an air system this power-full, You have purchased enough 8V batteries for the next 100 years.. Do I have to explain K I S S ??
LOLOLOLOL they remind me of being in a wheel and tire store...….but remind me of a Striker I ran with Schraeder Bellows air operated electronic controls...….they only put them on 14 boats before changing to a different system. They were 24 volt (on an all 12 volt boat), so 2 motorcycle batteries in engine room with their own battery charger, that plugged into a GFCI outlet, so needed a battery charger to keep that charged, generator to run the charger and air compressor, and then 1 of the 2 air compressors running in order for the solenoids (air) to work for the shift and throttle. Lose any one of those and you just lost control.
Update I have an electric 5 hp air compressor already on board. With a 30 gallon bottle. Also a truck air compressor direct driven on the back of my port main engine. We have air driven windshield wipers (AirPush) and a loud (Very) horn system. Just in the Rand starters, an extra air bottle, electric air valves, 1" + air connects and hoses, I will have already been past my Viking funeral before any payback.
Can you get 24v accessories easily here in w marine etc ie:Bilge and general purpose pumps ,bulbs or special order?
The larger WM stores will have 24V stuff on the shelf. The super stores may have some 32V stuff but it is usually ordered in.
And a lot of non but good WM stores will have 24 volt items. Basically just about any 1988 or newer 45'+ yacht will all use 24 volt equipment.
Agreed. Completing the transformation now on the engines from 32 (36) to 24. Replacing the cables. old ones are compromised and brittle, albeit still functioning. But they've worn out their usefulness over 40 years. Batteries have been relocated close to the mains as to minimize the cable runs as well. Splitting off the extra battery from each 36v pack to create a secondary house 24v. I spread the pain over a few years, and the process worked well. Glad it's finished.
I have a 50' bertram with 32 v altenators /starters: Q Should the 32v converter switch in the panel always stay on ? Can this overcharge the batteries?
Modern chargers (converters) regulate charge levels pretty well. Older chargers not so well so maintaining correct water level in your batteries is critical. but yes the charger should always be on to keep the batteries charged. This is important to ensure the batteries can power bilge pumps in case of an emergency
There are not to many 32V smart chargers. I have never liked battery chargers and engine alternators on at the same time. Seems they fight each other. I can see the volt meter bounce around in weird rhythms at these times. Usually not an issue if the gen set is off but sometimes we need the gen-set. I found on my old 32V Raritan battery chargers option that turn themselves off when the engines are running. Tapped onto that and I don't have to mess with charger breakers when the whole boat is running. As Pascal mentioned, Always keep the chargers on when away from the boat. Even the dumb chargers (real marine) have a max voltage charge. And keep an eye on the battery eletrlite levels. Keep them up with distilled water.
Years ago when I had a dumb charger I had put an industrial timer on the charger so it would only run about half the time. That still provided protection but reduced water consumption. once the alternators kick in, the charger should sense the higher voltage and drop off.
Until the alternator current drops off and the charger kicks back on. Tog-o-war was the best way I can describe it. I've noticed it on other older boats. Probably does not hurt anything, I just like smooth gauges and calm on my dash and in my (whats left) mind.
