How extensive of a paint job are you doing? Are you keeping existing color? How long does yard say total time for paint job? I'm really curious as a full paint job is on my list for end of this season assuming my Repower finishes up all well here in a few weeks. I'm thinking to go from my cream/buff color to bright white with a contrasting color on freeboard and likely keep my fwd mask and around windows a very dark blue or even black.
Complete paint-everything from the waterline to the hardtop. Yes, I've asked the yard to select the color to be as close to Viking factory white as possible. Same boot stripe and flybridge stripe color, pattern and size too. "60 working days"is the timeframe we were given when we made the commitment. All three yards that I approached about the job quoted approximately the same timeframe. We were tempted to have some fun with the color, but decided against it. If my new paint job gets scratched, I want it to be the same color underneath.
That's a great point about the color underneath if you get a scratch. Please post some pictures of the process and progress as it gets painted.
Went down last week, for the first time, to check in on the boat. Up until now, I've just been receiving a few photos from the yard as the job progressed. It was quite a disarming site. The boat is in about a thousand pieces! I must hand it to these guys, they have the boat stripped down to the last bracket, handle, hinge, frame, fixture and panel. Sorry I was so overwhelmed that I forgot to take any photos. The lead technician gave us a tour of the project that was spread over one boat house and five other structures. As the boat is being disassembled and prepped in the main building, all of the parts are stripped, sanded and prepped in another area, painted in another, and ultimately stored in a shipping container to await reassembly. The hardtop is in another building still awaiting disassembly.
They are finished with all the trim pieces, doors, handles, etc. and have started grinding and puttying on the hull and superstructure. Have started picking out new fixtures, lights, riggers, etc. I was disappointed to discover that the new windlass of choice has had its manufacturing moved to Taiwan. Back to the drawing board on that.
I will take a look at the Lofrans/Muir brands. Thanks. The boat was equipped with a Simpson Lawrence Windlass. Initially the yard wanted to refurbish it, but when we started looking at the cost and parts availability, we decided to replace it instead.
That I understand, I was under the impression that all Vikings of that generation came with Ideal windlass's.
Just installed last year a big Lofrans from Imtra. Wow it's brute and we luv it. Call Ray laVoie. This guy is great. https://www.imtra.com/anchoring.htm
Man...make sure that hull/deck joint and rub rail is addressed and done right, it's the most important part of the job, IMO. You don't want any leaks around there. Make sure they just don't put back S/S rub rail and 5200 over the joint. TACO makes alot of rub rails that would work for you if you need to look...
Hull has been primed. On order: Maxwell RC10 Windlass, Aquasignal Series 34 Nav lights, and Buell Air horns. Hope to pick out some Lumitec courtesy lights for the cockpit and Rupp Tournament Riggers next week.
Looks like she’s starting to come together. I hope you have as good of luck with your Maxwell windlass as I have. I do a lot of deep water anchoring 300’+ and my Maxwell has never let me down. I had a chain wheel issue when I first got it but they took care of it and since it has been great (knock wood).
Make sure you exactly match the chain gypsy with the type of chain on board, triple B, proof and other types of chain aren’t universally compatible.