Click for Glendinning Click for Cross Click for Abeking Click for Ocean Alexander Click for Westport

1989 45C No voltage to vacuflush & windlass

Discussion in 'Viking Yacht' started by BMCM, Jul 7, 2023.

You need to be registered and signed in to view this content.
  1. BMCM

    BMCM New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2023
    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Lake Michigan
    Good day all,

    I am sorting out our "new to us" viking and have no DC voltage at the vacuflush or windlass. I have run temp power to the head pump and it runs and believe the vacuum tank switch to be good. Looked at the boats manual & believe both are powered off the stbd battery bank and should have 24/7 voltage. There is no breaker on the panel for either, but the windlass does have a switch on the bridge. Any thoughts before I call an electrician?
  2. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2008
    Messages:
    8,558
    Location:
    Miami, FL
    The VF should be pretty straightforward and you should have a breaker on the DC panel. Maybe Viking got lazy and used a single breaker for all the heads, if that is the case they may have protected each pump individually with an inline fuse

    typically windlasses have two power feeds. You should have some fairly heavy cables going from the nearest battery bank to the windlass solenoid box. These will have have a battery switch and/or large circuit breaker.

    Sometimes power to switches and solenoids comes from the solenoid box or if you have a remote switch at the helm, the switch could be powered from the helm and have a standard breaker protecting that circuit.

    get a multimeter and check for power at the solenoid box, at the heavy cables coming from the battery. If no power trace the cables back toward the batteries
  3. Lunderic

    Lunderic Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2018
    Messages:
    82
    Location:
    Oceanside, NY
    I have a 53' so it could be different, but I have 2 VF breakers on the 12v side of the main panel. I had a defective breaker feeding on of them. Easy to test... open panel and see if you have voltage on both sides of the breaker when turned on. Windlass is a little more complicated. There is a switch on the helm and a breaker in the panel. I also have a very large individual breaker just as you enter the engine room. All three need to be on to work. Your setup could be different but hopefully this helps you out. Oh, and I forgot there were up, and down foot switches up near the windlass. Good Luck with the new ride!