Ever find the brand or get any photos ? Found an all stainless drop in the other day at a local grill store but the knobs on the front and the 6 in. depth I'm sure would have created a major install project, and it was not available in 220 v. as I would prefer.
Check it out. know nothing about them, just saw it online. https://www.mieleusa.com/e/combisets-cs-1322-bg-208v-stainless-steel-7235280-p
Sorry for the delay guys- here are the grill pics. It's a mess because of cooking striped bass we just caught on it.
This looks like the one right here https://www.cookwithkenyon.com/shop/no-lid-electric-grill-touch-control/ It works great and runs on 110v. I use a large turkey pan cover which fits nicely over everything to keep the heat in.
Super. Now I just need to find someone that can duplicate a fiberglass door for the lower face of my cabinet where I'll probably add either shelves or additional tackle drawers.
Yeah the grill has minimal depth, so a lot of space is now available below it where the freezer used to be. I'd like to do the same
I had someone look at mine yesterday and if an aft facing opening was CAREFULLY cut, the piece cut out can become a door and then this entity will custom build the interior for shelves or drawers.
The doors on my cockpit cabinets are actually clear acrylic painted on the outside to march the cabinets. Can see the screws inside the acrylic on hinge edge.
Mine too! Hoping to be able to cut out nice and neat like SplashFL mentioned and do something with the space
One option: Undercut the opening by about 1/4-3/8". Make a carefull wood template and clamp in place, then ease up to the final cut using the template with a sanding drum so won't chip the gelcoat. Can cut a ring, or use 4 separate strips, to bond inside to get thickness for a nice internal lip.
Interesting suggesting. I've been thinking of clamping a straight edge guide from top & bottom, & left to right, & cut using a router, and maybe a jig saw for the 4 corners but that's my plan B. Preferred plan A is the marine carpenter that has done some cabinet work and the teak & holly flooring in the past but want the electronic techs to finish their ongoing dash panel wiring first.
When it comes to thin materials, this is done on all of my projects. I use big welders vice grips, to clamp with and scrap wood. Welders vice grips are also used for my many epoxy / glue jobs. I luv the floating pads on the contact jaws. Don't gouge the work.
Grill finally arrived. Only draws 6 amps on 220 v. Have a couple extra 220 breakers so only fresh fish will be needed.
I wish I had a place to install something like this. We BBQ most of our dinners when on overnight trips. I have a Weber Q I have to store in a fishbox and carry around those darn little propane canisters.
I'm making room. I think I read someplace Weber, and others make portable electric grills which are popular with those in apartments that don't allow anything flammable. Since I don't live bait fish this grill is replacing the unused live well. Two plus hours so far and still tearing out. If Bertram built the rest of the boat as they did this thing she should last as long as the planet. Evidently they foamed the round well into the box with no thought of the poor guy that might some day want to remove it so had to cut it and all the plumbing into a bunch of pieces to remove but still dealing with the foam removal.
I too find it strange how some of the items on boats are built. The lids on my deck freezer are hella heavy. Same for the settee up on the flybridge. No idea why. I already converted my live well and incorporated into my freezer to provide more freezer space. Of course, that was back when we could process and freeze our fish on board. Now that we can't do that my freezer only holds bait and some overflow from the galley on longer trips. I have less issue with the propane cans as I do having to store the BBQ. There just aren't many places on boats for larger, bulky items. Fortunately, I have two really large fish boxes and usually only need one.
So the new grill is 220 v. draws 6 amps and the paperwork says install with a 220 v. GFCI. Only ever seen them for 115 v. so anyone have suggestion ??
They many manufactures make GFCI's in a wide variety of amperages but whether the manufacturer of your particular panel in your Bert makes them is the question. Here is a popular brand but I cannot vouch for them https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/14/28/Circuit_Breakers/ELCI_and_GFCI You need the breaker brand in your Bert
No idea what brand panel Bertram used. Wards Marine Electric in Ft. Laud. wrote they could supply a GFCI set up so will speak with them Monday. In the mean time the piece that was cut out will become the new door. Hunted all over for a matching white latch but only found a stainless one on Amazon so may replace the two existing ones if its exact size.