Dry bilge Solutions

Because S/skr is indeed a premium builder in some ways, but attention to detail in "behind the scenes" installations just ain't one of them.

It's a boat, floating in water. I see more issues with bilge pumps in "dry bilge" boats because they just sit there and don't get exercised. Things may drain into the bilge, sometimes it's the engine room hatch, etc. etc.

That's precisely what I meant with my previous comment ref. attention to detail (lack of) in some "hidden" parts of the boat.
See, it is indeed possible to build e/r hatches that don't let one drop of water inside, no matter how hard you could try, even with a pressure washer.
As well as it's possible to build e/r air intakes which drain 100% of external water outside - be it when washing the boat, or when it rains, or in rough seas.
And it's not hard to fit a shower pump box wherever there is some condensation water to be collected (fridges, chillers, whatever).

In this respect, what you said ("there's nothing wrong with that") is a bit debatable.
Sure, we aren't talking of something that could sink a boat, but I can name you several boats of other builders whose bilges are normally as dry as a bone, mine included.
Which is something I very much like, not because I'm maniac about it, but because if and when you see some liquid, you know there's some fault to be found somewhere.

That said, I agree that bilge pumps should be regularly exercised.
But I very much prefer to do it myself, rather than let some unidentified liquid do the job, if you see what I mean...

Yes, we're using them. We change them every couple of years to avoid buildup and failures. But other locations like a forward bilge and laz, where we want zero water needs a different solution.

We have an aft and forward sump in the "wet" bilge so that water sits only in the low sump, not in a wider, open area. Sumps can then be cleaned and maintained regularly. Any damage being created to a metal boat is then relegated to those sumps and can be better monitored very long term.

https://www.aridbilgesystems.com/

Bilge pumps leave a reside of water in the bilges. They can never pull 100% of the water out. If maintaining a dry bilge is important to you, Arid is the way to go. I have a 10 port system aboard, and I pull from every bilge as well as the grey water tank. An aluminum hull wants me to keep the bilges dry, so I oblige.

Yes, I routed into a galley sink overboard discharge.

Pascal - I like this solution. It is Redneck, but for the money spent, the simplicity of the system, I don't think you could beat it. I shop vac the fwd bilge in the 40 footer every couple weeks. It's the best way to get it all out. Shop Vacs are cheap, and they work.

Curious if you could purchase the pick up pucks from Arid, tie them to your bucket head via a manifold...

Build a manifold with a simple ball valve on the opposite end of the suction, use it to vent the suction relief as needed. Once set, it's set.

Tell the company you need to buy replacement pickups and tubing.

You need the pickups and the tubing that properly fits those pickups. Building the manifold would simply allow a piece of PVC to be tapped by fittings suitable to receive each tube/capillary that connect to the pickup foot. Connect the shop vac to one end, and cap the other end. Include a ball valve that can be adjusted to manage the suction on the capillaries. Perhaps the vent isn't necessary if there are several taps.