Circuit Breaker labeled APS?

On the web page offered, on the bottom the Overview* (IMO) is a catch all statement for many of their products. Poorly laid out in this web page.
Above this Overview is the specs for this one of many devices.

This particular transformer is not capable of preforming anywhere close the the Overview comment on 50Watts, except a short string of 10w lights.




*
Overview
Buck-Boost Transformers are small single phase transformers designed to reduce (buck) or raise (boost) line voltage from 5-20%. The most common example is boosting 208 volts to 230 volts, usually to operate a 230 volt motor such as an air-conditioner compressor, from a 208 volt supply line.
Buck-Boost Transformers are an economical way to correct a potentially very serious problem. Anytime a line voltage change in the 5-20% range is required, a Buck-Boost Transformer should be considered as your first line of defense.

Back to the OP, Post #15.
"Boat is 12v throughout."
I figure some of your 12v lights are on this transformer.
Any lights NOT working?
Time to pull out the volt meter and follow the electrons.

Thoughts on Auto Power Selector idea;
I have witnessed some strange things nailed down in boats.
RV auto power switches included. Some of these poorly Frankensteined into working.
Don't rule out this idea either.
Defiantly time to pull out the volt meter and follow the electrons.

Well,,,
ZF would be your clutches or electric engine controls.
Including electric trolling valves.

Also (tongue in cheek) thruster or windlass??
Or any heavy loads.
With some imagination, your electronics suite..

So, what's not working upstairs??

Send BlueNomad that beer. Post #3.

Pretty sure there is, and I struggle to think of how your previous boat could have worked without it.
I attaching below a photo of that box, which is usually (though not necessarily) located in the e/r.



You might be interested to check out also the following diagram, which shows both the very same very actuator box (seen from its bottom), and also your APS unit. The diagram is meant for dual station, but you can easily work out how it would look like with a single station.
BTW, just in case you'd wonder why in the diagram the two stations are called 2 and 3 instead of 1 and 2, that's just because 1 is meant for an e/r station, if present.
Anyway, if the APS unit and its breaker are connected according to the following diagram, and the breaker doesn't stay on for whatever reason, I'd expect your levers to be completely dead.

Wow
Brother mapism found the grail*..

Brother mapism drinks better than just a beer.

* The object of a prolonged endeavor.

If I understand you have traced the APS relay, and it goes to this transformer, I have a few comments. If it is just a proximity deal, and you haven't conclusively determined the relay serves the transformer, you will need to conclusively trace the breaker to the destination.

The transformer is 24VAC out so there's no relation to the 12VDC battery circuit(s). I don't know what 24VAC serves on your boat.

As much as I hate to say this, you better call 'the guy' and have an electrical marine tech figure this out. As for adding batteries, sometimes it's a wise investment, sometimes, it's just a waste of storage. On most larger boats, there should be two completely separate banks of batts, generally called 'starting' and 'house'(I'm sure you know this), with an emer switch to gang both together for starting, or select the house batt for starting in the event of a failed start battery, just to get you home.

I haven't figured out from prior posts how ya'll can tell that transformer is 24VAC? But then I also can't read the print on the pic in that link OP posted...

In any case, we have some low voltage AC lighting. These are 120VAC circuits with a transformer to 24VAC... and then also with dimmers. No clue why the builder thought 24VAC lighting would be useful.

I question the word "should." I think you'd find it quite common in U.S. built twin-engine production boats over the last 20 (30? 35?) years to instead have two main banks, each of which starts one engine and services half of the house loads. With a parallel start switch. I've only owned -- and shopped on -- boats up to about 60', though. FWIW, I haven't found it to be a handicap...

-Chris

Click on the hotlink in post #15. The specs are listed. BTW, all transformers are AC. A transformer is an AC pass and DC block device.

Because if I had said "Will" or "must" some **** retentive poster would come on here and advise me that there is no legal requirement for a twin engine to have dual DC circuits, one per engine. I did not qualify anything relating to single or dual engines.

Yeah, I kinda figured that proximity did not indicate connectivity. Need to trace the APS CB and see what it feeds. We're all just shooting blanks here.

I'm sure this is just the electronics DCv going low when the engines are started.
A very common issue.
A separate bank of batteries is usually the best cure here.

One last thought.
This lil ZF box could just be Frankensteined in for the system for your electronics.
Does the electronics crash on one , the other or both when the engines are started.

Question; How many APS breakers are there. I'm assuming two, one from each battery bank.
Disconnect the battery leads from this box and see what stops working.


I kind of like this idea of a APS like this for electronics. I wonder how fast it switches?
If it work like a UPS? Going to ponder over this idea for our boat.

Thanks. I've looked at the link, but maybe haven't known how to interpret things on it.

??

In that Products Specifications box, is the relevant part "Available Voltage" (AC in?) and "Needed Voltage" (DC out?). And/or "Primary Voltage" (AC in?) and "Secondary Voltage" (DC out?).

Something like that?

FWIW, I wasn't questioning your engines part, just commenting that engine/house bank separation doesn't seem like gospel according to many boat manufacturers.

-Chris

There is no "DC" anywhere. It's just a step down transformer. Very low wattage, maybe for decorator lights, like found on the patio walkways. Stepped down to a safe 24VAC.

ACv in, ACv out