Not bad. Still the original , 1979 stamped on them. Standard size main bearings, just starting to see the copper with in. Going to install new standard size bearings. The rod bearings looked very good.
So, let me get this rite, #2 piston lost a top edge long ago. Not a problem, It's a Detroit. All else looks good. Explain to me again Lucy, ,,, why are you tearing down a good running Detroit?? I luv ya kid. Just got to throw stuff at ya. But really, I don't see any emergency issues,,,, yet. You just wanted to get into one??
How bad did the starter look as you were cleaning it up? What did you see to change your mind? As long as your looking at a starter, How does that ring gear look? What the starter grinds on to rotate the flywheel?
Starter gear and con looked brand new, The exterior is rusty as hell solenoid looks like crap. This starter is real low up against the engine stringer and fuel tank , impossible to remove after the engine is put in place…
That starter has the rotating head also. Ensure the new starter has its nose aligned in the same position before mounting. Invest in a new starter also (not rebuilt). Ole Bert 32V starters have not been touched since we have owned her. Could be original. Not pretty, but never failed. One day, converting to 24V MT50s. These will be new then. a few bux extra but I'm not going to touch them again for at least another 20 years.
Got tired of holding down the starter button for two or three minutes… Things were looking spooky rusty and what not. And FYI; all four liners came up out of the engine easily without the pistons pistons fall right through the liners… I’d say they’re worn just a little bit.
You have to remove the engine or tear it down to get the starter out? Sounds like it is a PITA under any circumstances. I think I would buy a new starter from a reputable manufacturer AND have it bench tested before installing. It would royally suck to do all the work you’re doing then have a starter issue.
I forgot to mention, my mechanic friend preferred to bar the motor from the flywheel. He has a home made gear that goes in where the starter is , like a stater cone with a stater gear and a 1/2” drive on the out side. that’s how we took the liners out. That’s why I pulled the stater out , and got a good look at it.
I had access to one of those tools. Must have been older than myself (that's old). On some of the real old installs, pending the clutch, fly-wheel & bell-housing, there was just a plate opposite from the starter. You could mount the starter on either side. Now days to use this tool, you have to remove the starter. Not worth it if access to the front bolt is available. I was just chatting on another thread about a similar tool on MAN engines. You don't need to remove the starter for that one. Port in the fly wheel ready to use in a minute. Either tool; it's slow turning the engine with a hand ratchet. Air ratchet would be a great help. You got compressed air on board?
After I removed, just had the starter left to remove. Came off easily. Had an oil leak above, kept the nose from seizing into place! Why DD used two 15/16” bolts and one fancy 12 point PIA bolt baffles me to hold the stater…I now have a 12 point socket set.
Thanks MYlover. I believe I only had one panic attack so far , wondering what the hell am I doing. I’m sure glad I found someone to work with me for the technical steps. We are working well together. I’m really learning a lot . I’ve created my own personal Detroit training school.
Usually, you can not reach that bolt with a wrench, only a socket with extension. A better 12 point socket/bolt can center, insert and apply more torque than a regular bolt head. Good ideas when working in the dark or out of sight on an old rusty bolt. Just another thought, from some long ago geezer, that tried to make servicing these engines easier. Not many of these folk left (if any).
Ha ha! One day of work of work on this thing , then I need two days of rest and recuperation just to start all over again!