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1974 Chris Craft Dory - Holding it’s own.

Discussion in 'Tenders & Dinghies' started by cleanslate, Jun 20, 2021.

  1. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    If it is the adapter plate, please examine the clutch front input shaft seal carefully.
    Behind this seal is the oil pump. When that seal leaks, it make a mess and you may loose oil pressure.
    Some times it's good PM to replace it while it is in sight.
  2. boatpoor

    boatpoor Active Member

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    The flex plates are built so that the hub will spin if you hit something or get a line fouled in a wheel. They're junk after that but it sometimes saves more expensive components.
  3. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    It’s the damper plate , it’s broke off near the bolts to the flywheel. It’s thin and rusty….original 21 years old.
    It’s stuck on the trans spline …for now .
    Work in progress…
  4. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Here we go…what’s this we? I go…yay!
    Cheap three bolt damper plate. My Crusader parts manual shows a 6 bolt plate. Lame . I’m 99% sure this is original factory plate. Factory blue paint was still in tact.
    Ya even get Screwed from the engine manufacturer don’t we. 13E2B6E4-E47E-4F6D-BDA2-EAC12735A6E6.jpeg
  5. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    365B5576-7D9C-472D-A7EA-D6213FCE09E2.jpeg
  6. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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  7. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Jess,….I mean yes I did . The best I can.
    Got that low profile rule pump.
    Work well. It will always get some water in there. Now that I’m into it
    motor sits about 2” above the hull.
    Oil pan and trans sump in some water most of the time.
    I did look over the dry bilge solutions. Good ideas but my little Dory doesn’t have much room in the bilges ( I have three bilge compartments, forward, center at motor and aft.) it’s completely open to the rain etc. it would be a never ending task to keep all the water out.
    And a few rough speedy trips out would knock the pumps about especially in the forward compartment.
    Even if they were fastened down.
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2021
  8. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    You get the plate off the in-shaft O K?
    Remember to look over that front seal.

    Then, Ospho and paint well your next plate. Fresh high grade bolts and lock washers and anti size on the bolt threads and in-shaft spline.
    Ospho also etches raw metal. Read the directions on this. Really helps the rust-o-elm stick & do its job.
  9. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Check out the bottom of the oil pan while it's bottom is exposed. :D
    With the clutch out of the way, you should be able to fondle the pan bottom and give you an idea of how rusted it is.
    To replace the pan now is easy, Just loosen the forward Crusader mount clamps, raise the rear of the engine and drop (R&R) the pan.

    I wonder, can you powder coat an oil pan?
  10. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Hey CR!
    I really appreciate the input and your advice.

    The oil pan is OK I did check that out.
    The trans seal seems ok.

    I just got the parts and I’m not planning on painting the flex plate I just don’t have enough time and too much to do managing two boats and work etc.
    I have to draw a line in the sand at some point. Or it never will get done.
    Got the better 454 six bolt flex plate, which was supposed to be on there in the first place.

    Putting it back together next Friday.

    I also got an oil and transmission cooler.
    Changing that out while I’m into it.
    It’s the all in one U-cooler mounts on front of the engine.
  11. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Update
    This project is generally so far kicking me squarely in my transom!!

    Having a grand time getting the old flex plate off the transmission spline….

    Yeah , yeah I know . It’s been soaking in PB blaster for more than a week.

    Using a puller and still not moving .
    Tried heat also.
    I’ll get it some how.
  12. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    7DEF42EB-1B6E-4ACB-8064-2D38A0391A4F.jpeg Had to cut and cut some more to get the old flex plate off the transmission very carefully with my 4.5” angle grinder.
  13. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    The proper new one installed.
    6 bolt flex plate .
    Everything back together now bell housing , trans , motor back in place today.
    A little more to go yet. 88E3B1E5-7227-4F00-8103-4ED879A976BC.jpeg
  14. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Heat on the shaft, Replace that front seal for sure now..
  15. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Uh …CR to late .It’s back together.
    You know that isn’t happening.
    Don’t believe I got it that hot.

    Got 8 hrs in on it .
    So far so good .

    Did have an ignition switch in line fuse go on me though … had to borrow one from my old pump switch to get back in.
    Fuse holder was shot .. replaced that with a Blue Seas water proof ATC job.
    Lol!

    I’m like a bull in a China shop CR!
    Lol. Cringe away everyone .
  16. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    F8AE76A4-4F74-4874-9650-A00DA3E996DF.jpeg Nothing a can of paint and a brush can’t fix.
    Roll and tip, tip and roll. Pettit Easypoxy Platinum on the hull last week . Also new half round stainless steel rub rail attached to the existing gray rubber rubber rail to dress it up a bit.
    Taking a trip to Naples area this March for two weeks got a look good down there!
  17. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    95E3BC2E-DC14-4CA4-8BE9-22CAB9E0EC2C.jpeg A good splash of Penetrol helps too!
  18. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Carl…I don’t know …? It worked this time! No tricks .
    Lol
  19. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    134BF153-1520-423C-BC2F-A3B5A94F83A4.jpeg Before photo….chalked up hull.
  20. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Ya got to look over the river & swamp around here. Another YF member is moving in the next hood.
    No barnacles....