Was on a 43 Post yesterday and have a couple questions of current owners. This boat is listed as having a 120V/50A shore power input. I've only known of 120V/30A and 120/240-50A. Is the 125V/50A commonly available at marinas? What is your boat configured with. Where are the water tank and holding tank? The fuel gauges were not reading. Are the tank senders easily accessible? The refrigerator in the boat is too deep for the depth of the opening so sticks out a lot. What do you have in yours? Has anyone converted one to drawer style units? Thanks - Greg
Also, does each engine draw from a separate tank? Is the fuel transfer only to "balance" the tanks? Thanks
120Vac/50A is an older electric service. Most newer marinas do not offer this service any more. Usually, a new 120-240Vac/50A male plug in installed on the shore service cord end. This allows one of the two 120Vac lines to be used from the dock pedestal with the 50A service rating. I have witnessed others using a new 120Vac/30A male plug also but that kind of defeats the utility and service of the 50A equipment already installed onboard. Probably pops the dock breaker often also. Here is guide to help identify the plugs; https://www.marinco.com/en/resources/quick-charts/qc-standard-cordsets If you are not comfortable with electricity, please consult or hire a qualified electrician when making any modifications to your shore power needs. Our Bertram originally came with a 120Vac/50A and a 240Vac/50A service. The thought was the 120V lead powered the important stuff; lights, battery chargers, outlets and the 240v lead powered the frills; A/Cs, range, water heater and laundry. At first, I did modify the 120V/50A to a 240V/50A end but after adding more A/Cs to the boat, I converted that whole panel to 240V/50 Service. At marinas, I have to make sure 2 X 240V/50A service or a 4 pin 100A service is available. Never had a problem.
Lotts of great Post Kids on Yacht Forums. Give them time to chime in with the best answers on the rest of your questions.
I had not seen anyone using that before, but the marina the boat is at did have that plug (see pic). Marinco does sell and adapter end that I guess would then just connect to one leg of the more common 125/240-50A service. The single line does power both branches of the panel (all circuits were hot) as seen in the pic. Thanks - Greg
Your pic is a 240Vac/50A connect. The standard marina connect. Check Marinco lead from post #3 That does look like a dual lead, 120Vac/50A panel. Branch A & B are the two legs of 120Vac each. In zooming in on the panel, It looks like no 240Vac appliances in use. It maybe better described as all 120Vac appliances working on dual 120Vac legs.
It may be owner mis-speak and has already been re-wired. There was a second power input in the cockpit not connected (I have seen photos of 43's connected with a Y to both outlets). It's similar to our Viking panel with two 120v banks, but the Viking has a 240v generator and at least one 240v appliance (water heater). Thanks- Greg
Maybe not. My boat started out with 2 x 30 ,125 v cords and was converted to 1 x 125/250 v 50 A cord . Both cord sets fed/ feed a 120v A side and 120 v B side but the genny is 120 v output only and feeds both A & B. There are no 250 volt loads on the boat. The drum switch makes the change.
Either way works fine. I guess to help ensure the 2, 120Vac leads keep a balanced load on the gen-set, just a bad asp single 120Vac output would be easier. You have to remember the theory of AC electricity. 240Vac is two 120Vac levels stacked on each other. There is more into it with cycle phasing but usually invisible and does not require any additional thought (single phase theory). You don't need to have 240Vac loads to run that way. As I described our Bertram in post #3, that original 120Vac/50A service & panel, I had to split into 2, 120Vac legs to help keep the gen-set (also providing juice to the 240Vac options) load balanced. Or else all the 120Vac stuff would be on just one leg of the two. That was the tip to just make it a second 240Vac panel and run the same shore power service and cords. I'm still adding and changing that updated panel. Added a 240Vac ( 2 x 120Vac) inverter, updating the 2 ROs to 240Vac and yet another A/C unit.
Looking forward to the Post Kids to return from their boating weekend and help the OP answer the rest of his questions. Post Kids are Cool, 71s Rule..
Hopefully the surveyor or previous owner answered some of your questions. Remember to have the boat surveyed out very well including an engine tech going thru the engines and gen-set. What engines are in her? 671s?
Cat C7.1's (still under warranty) Always have full through surveys. Least expensive thing you can do to a boat.
My 43 is a 1989 - 120/240 - 50A Water tanks are under the cockpit - One on each side straddling the fuel tank Holding tank is under bottom bunk - Guest SR Senders are easily accessible My fridge stick out too far as well... If you find one that fits I would love to hear about it. Original model must not have been quite as deep. Each engine draws from a separate tank...Aft tank feeds starboard engine and genset. FWD tank feeds port engine. I have used transfer pump to transfer fuel from aft (larger) tank to forward tank but never needed to go the other way. Just don't forget to shut it off... Set a timer or something. Good luck and have fun!
I got some answers from the owner. He had the dual 120-50A inlets re-wired to a single 120/240-50A inlet. I may replace the disconnected 120-50A inlet with a 120-30A wired to just the branch that has the battery charger for use at my dock. The on-line Post 47 manual and comments I've seen on 46's say you need to shut off the valves on either side of the transfer pump when not it use. Since I think the transfer pump fastens to the back of the aft tank that would be impossible underway. Do you need to turn valves before/after fuel transfer on the 43, or just the selector switch at the helm? From what the owner said that may have been changed during re-engine as he said he runs fwd tank first, than aft. Will get a clearer picture from him at survey as he will be there running the boat so I can watch and figure out all the systems. Never would have found the holding tank. For fridge we are thinking to put in the Isotherm CR200, it will fit just about flush from measurements I made of the refrigerator cavity. It will be a bit taller than counter height but would put in a separate "workstation counter" above it. Haven't even gotten the boat yet and already starting my list of projects. Thanks
I always close the ball valve located back by the transfer pump when not transferring fuel. Actually rarely transfer fuel. Not too big a deal to pull out the starborard deck/fish box to open the valve when needed.