Duffy Electric boats....?

Hi Eden, thank you so much for joining the conversation. Sounds like you are the kind of person I've been looking for. I've had to speak with Duffy to get any meaningful information about my '83 Duffy, built by W.D. Schock.

I've noticed that both their 10" propeller and the 12" seem to be copies of Michigan Wheel's machine pitch and DJ335. I have both urethane props from Duffy, currently using the 12" although it does drive my motor RPM down to ~1500, I am running a different motor, Motenergy ME1305 brushless PMAC. There seems to be a large efficiency improvement from spinning a larger prop at half the speed but it does cause motor cooling issues. I need additional gear reduction past the 2.8:1 ratio, like a Baldor speed reducer gearbox.

I am looking for a part that comes from the W.D. Schock era. The curved brass/bronze toe rail chock at the stern of the boat that sits at the corner of the teak toe rails.

I recently had my 2004 Duffy motor cleaned up as the brushes were stocking and sparking. When I put the motor back in it seems that the motor and shaft are out of alignment because the shaft wiggles and makes a loud grinding noise when I run it. Is there a diagram of which holes I should be using to attach to the mount or what position the motor should sit at in relation to the shaft? Thanks.

Oversized image removed. Please resize and upload at 640 pixels or less.

I was in Stewart a couple of weeks ago. Just south of Sunset Bay Marina I noticed a Duffy sign.
Nothing on Google Earth but around the 400 SW Federal Hwy (34994) address schema.
A public boat ramp rite behind the building. At the N/W corner of the lil canal and UseLess1.
No idea if the shop is still open. Just know a few members chat about these electric boats when I noticed the sign.

I'm new to the forum but live in Massachusetts so I get to do my own service too. No one around here knows anything about Duffys. I recently replaced the brushes and put the motor back together. Looking for tips on how to properly align and tension the belt once it's in, how do you know if it's right? It's running well, maybe a bit slower than normal and it's whinier than normal.

Hi Captain - I purchased a Duffy with an Alltrax SR controller installed. When I push the throttle I only get a click sound and the prop doesn't respond. Any suggestions?

Is there a way to test the controller?

Given the lack of local support, cost of batteries and limited speed, I'd gladly have a small 4 stroke on a duffy.

Hello all,
New owner of a used 21' Duffy Cruiser. Very glad to have found this forum, thank you for adding me.
I'm looking to replace and align drive belt. Should drive shaft bearing be removed, or should I remove the entire bearing assembly from the motorbox/bulkhead? Does the packing gland need to be loosened (the large brass nut around the shaft?)
Very new to this, and inboard propulsion in general, not even certain of terms/identifying parts. Having difficulty finding any motor/drive train schematics, any available anywhere?
Thank you for any help!
Jason

Hi, and welcome along with our journey, we are all learning.

Dag will be along shortly, with his Scandi swear-words but they are all true. Loved my Duffy, perfect for the Yacht Club.

Hi Norseman,
sorry, it was a few days before I saw your response. thank you.
Looking for instruction on how to pull back prop shaft to replace belt. Some pics of what I have:


How does the shaft disconnect from the bearing box? Loon set screws on brass bushing and stainless collar?

Not sure why there are a series holes drilled down in the groove of the lower pulley, maybe someone did it to balance it? I've got the added fun of having most set screws stripped out by previous owner/mechanic. It appears the brass bushing has a extra hole where someone drilled out a set screw and then tapped another hole.
Thanks for any advice

Best guess is that the recesses in the shaft are the original locations for the set screws from the locking collar. That collar is what is holding the shaft into place, riding on the blue bearing. Remove those set screws, and it should all slide back far enough to clear the belt. Curious as to the adjustment for the locking collar location. Wonder if that bearing is a replacement that tweaked the dimension a fraction? When you get the collar loose, perhaps nudge the shaft aft just enough to get these holes into approximate location, then look to see what's happening around the prop? Might be able to return the shaft to these spots, or you might learn that the setup at and around the bearing has been changed.

If you must, drill out the old set screws, then retap the collar for new set screws to replace the old stripped ones. Likely overtightened and stripped doe to not having these original holes to seat in...

...angle of the camera, perhaps, but is your pulley alignment proper? That same collar area appears to define the location of the pulley, so it's somewhat critical to get that right going forward...

Looks like the Zerk is up, just hidden above the port mounting bolt.
I agree with Norse. Unbolting the bearing from the frame looks like a better idea.

Got to get the pics down sized.