Low shore power voltage

For enders ...

Do a little bit of Googling for meter safety, arc flash, electrical safety. The history of cheap meter explosions, fires, and smoked amateur electricians is long and gruesome.

When you discover that the probes are not long enough or thin enough to reach inside the shore power socket or female end of the cord to read a voltage, what is your next step?

Hi,

Use those cheap test leads with an alligator clip at each end, one end on the probe and the other on something long and skinny enough to reach into the hole.

Nails , bits of wire coat hangers, electrical screwdrivers all work just fine.

The beauty of using those test leads in between is they form a sort of safety device in the event of a major over current. You can tell this is happening as the insulation really swells before they burst into flames

Gee! I wish I knew that before I used a $20 voltmeter 1,653 times in the past...

Hi,

The $20.00 Meter will probably be a world away from the Barbie Pink $5.00 one you linked to

Don't worry ... there's always the next time.

Jeeeez Marmot, how else are you going to light the charcoal barbeque grill on the dock next to the power pedestal when the winds blowing????? And at $5 a pop, it's almost as cheap as lighter fluid in some places!

O K we'll begin all over...really spend some of the boss's money.



for starters...

RadioShack 15-Range Digital Multimeter : Multimeters | RadioShack.com

Here's what I mostly use, over 15 years old now: Fluke T5-1000 max voltage 1000V. They also make a T5-600,max voltage 600 . Only has 4 settings Off ,Volts(this is auto-detecting AC or DC & auto ranging) Amps(measures current directly,place wire between fork, don't have to break circuit) Ohms(has continuity beeper) and a display hold button.

Probes ends are flat to fit into a 120v. receptacle and removable. I recommend the extension lead set with some alligator clips. The leads are silicone rubber not cheap plastic.

If you have only one meter this should be your first. Your not always switching the probes plugs-ins & guessing if you got it right.

Fluke-Direct.com | Trusted Name At Great Prices.


http://www.fluke.com/Fluke/usen/Electrical-Test-Tools/Electrical-Testers/Fluke--T5.htm?pid=55986

Hi,

Fluke Meters are the best IMO.

I have two older Fluke 87's that are kept calibrated as they are excellent for setting up Gensets and an older Model 27 with an Amp clamp and Temp Module.

A test light is also a favourite of mine for DC stuff or a moving coil meter as a true digital meter can be misleading at times when dealing with low volt DC systems.

I agree,a high quality analog meter should also be part of your electrical tool kit . Unless your going to spend 5 to 10 grand on a 3 color oscilloscope !

H'mmm, that's never stopped anyone before.

That's why there is so many voltage dips and Back EMF caused/coming from the boats around you.

Back EMF? Must be a motor boat, eh?

Or was that just inductive reasoning?

Ha Ha LOL funny But those pod drives are a Motor boat in the truest sense of the word.


Back to NYCAPT123 the marina should have a meter you can borrow ?
I think forum members that ask technical questions should post a lot more pictures. Many threads have none. Not only does a picture = 1000 words, it makes a thread much more interesting. It's hard to give advice without seeing what's there.

Which brings us back to post# 40.
You almost certainly have one pair of a 120/208 V system but only your meter will know for sure.

To summarize
Check the voltage at the pedestal with no load.
Check the voltage boat end of the cord with no load.
Shut it off and plug the cord to pedestal and the female into the boat.
Check the voltage at the power panel at no load.
If you have alligator type clips you can leave the leads attached to either phase to phase or phase to neutral and gradually add load until your are fully loaded.

I think you can safely rule out any counter EMF's or back EMF's.

Good luck and try not to earn a nick name like French Fry or Sparky....