Under contract - 2003 Neptunus 56 w/ cat 3406e - top speed/rpm issue

I considered the props to be dialed in to a proper pitch and diameter given the RPM,s the temperatures, the pressures, and the boost. Both engines performed the same. If you added pitch to slow the props down and increase the fuel burn (wby would you?), you would load the engines, increase the temps and pressures, and stress the engines.

If you're focused upon speed and fuel burn as your primary concerns, you're staring at the wrong information. Start with RPM and temp. Don't worry about speed. Speed is more reflective of the hull or prop conditions, not the engines. Ask yourself, why aren't the engines spinning the proper RPM, an engine rotation for which they were designed to produce and perform?

The 3406E-800 should be able to spin up 2325 with light load. When you prop your boat, the aim should be more about achieving 2301 versus 2299. My engines were 1999 vintage, and at that time the spec was 2300-2325. If you over-prop, the engine will stress under load at every point of the curve, even at cruise. You'll see higher boost pressures and exhaust temps. The engine doesn't "ignore" the over-prop impacts just because it's at cruise. The same over-load follows it from the moment you put it into gear.

You're overcomplicating it and trying to build in excuses and reasons. It's simple. The boat fails to reach proper RPM. That's the only thing to know. In ideal conditions it should exceed rated RPM and it should always perform close. Do not think, talk, mention speed and fuel again until RPM is resolved.

Even on the lake and now on the coast, every service of engines, warranty or paid, concludes with a time allocation for sea trial to verify maximum RPM is reached. Only sure way to be sure service was done properly. Essential to a rebuild or overhaul. I would have never accepted a rebuild until the engines hit maximum RPM. Don't buy the subterfuge. Don't add other elements. Boat doesn't hit RPM, unacceptable. Rebuld job not complete until it does.

To directly answer your question, I can’t think of an engine issue that you could correct by taking pitch out of your props or underpropping. Also why a good engine survey looks at lots of parameters like boost pressures to verify the engines are making full power.

Speed will be what it will be. Once you know that engines reach full rpm, then you can do the rest of the survey and verify all is good. At that point, you get what you get for speed based on hull form, length, power, etc. assuming the bottom is clean and in good condition. Keep in mind nearly all owner’s and especially brokers typically exaggerate speed by 1-2 knots. Or , you may get to that speed but only under perfect conditions and not real world.

So once you get the rpm issue resolved, verify no other engine issues, and if the bottom is in good shape decide if the speed is enough for you. If the boat is too slow to satisfy your needs, then you need to find another boat.

Ole mechanical governors are solid on many engines. E Cats have a catch all over rev but all else is computer controlled.
I'm a big fan of the 34s. That 3406E is my favorite. Just not a lot of them talked about much. That solid of a block and crankshaft.
AND, it likes RPM.
This puppy has some problem somewhere.
I would be very interested in the rebuild sea trials. It had to make RPM then to be warrantied by a proper Cat shop.

A fresh bottom job, yes, if it's incredibly fouled. I don't see 3-4" of pitch. I see more like an inch or so and less cup...but there's an issue there that needs to be resolved before you buy. The purchase closing needs to be subject to full rated RPM being achieved in sea trial at the seller expense.

I had to go re-read your original post; Fresh bottom cleaning??
Now the owner is telling you it needs a bottom job?

How clean and polished is that bottom and gear???

The no-load RPM test on an electronic engine isn't going to tell you much, other than it can turn rated RPM at no load. While that's useful, it isn't much of a test as it's only while under load that everything from boost to injection timing all comes into play. The ECU needs to be reacting to the engine loads to determine how to make the horses run. Being so close to rated RPM, I strongly doubt there is any use in no-load testing here. With a mechanical engine I'd agree. But the 3406E-800 has perhaps 40 sensors, an ECU, and chip processors on each injector. That ECU is actively doing math and making adjustments to the systems. I posted photos of the CAT displays, not for RPM, but for all of the auxiliary numbers, especially boost and fuel pressure. This low RPM rating could be prop. It could also be ECU and/or turbo and fuel. There's not enough information in this thread to sort it out.

Did the CAT tech that rebuilt perform a sea trial? And if so, did he see rated RPM? If that happened, there is less likely issues with the prop, more likely some other fuel or boost problem.

It's pretty simple. Seller, go call your diver, spend the $300-400 to have it well cleaned, and then re-trial to prove the RPM. Who the hell would try to sell a boat with a bottom so fouled that it wouldn't perform under contract?

Agreed. I've lost 2 to 3 knots to bad fouling, but I've never lost 150-200 RPM due to a barnacle.

Makesumwake already states the bottom was clean

now unless the bottom is clean but the running gear isn’t, then that is not the issue. There could be a little bit left over growth but t

Worn bottom paint isn’t going to make a difference. Prop speed is not going to make a difference over clean props either.

if the seller is telling you a fresh bottom job is going to get you back 150 rpm... he is full of you know what.

until a sea sea trial shows the boat turns RPM and deliver acceptable speed, do not spend a dime on survey.