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Transom leak

Discussion in 'Technical Discussion' started by elixer, May 29, 2008.

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  1. elixer

    elixer New Member

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    I have a 93 32' Chris Craft cruiser that I had out for the winter getting bottom paint. I put it back in last weekend and notice a pretty good leak at the bottom of the port engine outdrive. I've had two repair men look at it in the water and they say since it leaks worse in reverse that the transom must be rotten and replaced. They are both saying that both engines and outdrives must be pulled and the entire transom replaced and that the boat must set out for three months to dry out. My question is why must the engines and outdrives be pulled and if the entire transom is going to be replaced, and why must it dry out for three months? Thanks.
  2. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    What is the boat made of?

    It might leak worse in reverse as the water pressure is greater on the transom when going backwards than going forwards.

    It's only a little boat can you not get it lifted and whilst it's in the slings have a poke around at the transom and see if it is rotten, I would have thought if it's that rotten your painter would have noticed it when prepping and applying the bottom paint.
  3. Ken Bracewell

    Ken Bracewell Senior Member

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    The outdrives will need to be removed for the obvious reason that they will have nothing to attach to whence the transom is removed :D
    The engines will be removed for two reasons- first is to protect them from damage being done through the course of a messy fiberglass repair. The second is to create working space for the re-glassing of the new transom.
    You may have been steered a little off course with the method of letting the boat sit for 3 months. I would assume that they want to cut out the rotten transom and let the hull sit to dry. This process can be hurried along with the use of vacuum bagging the exposed glass in order to "suck" the water out. I did this on an old hatteras and let the vacuum work for about 5 days before we saw that there was no more moisture being drawn out.
    Best of luck!
  4. elixer

    elixer New Member

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    So I assume once the boat is out of the water you can tell for certain if the problem is in the transom or boots? Will the outdrives have to be pulled to tell for certain? I have OMC outdrives. One of the repairman told me they were know for leaking. Is this correct? Thanks for your help..........
  5. Ken Bracewell

    Ken Bracewell Senior Member

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    The outdrive will need to be removed, regardless. The boot is a continuous cylindrical part, so the unit needs to be removed for replacement. It will be obvious if it is the boot- any hole allowing that much water will stick out like a sore thumb.
  6. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    My ship building and maintaining specialty is steel but I would say that even with a Fiberglass boat that hauling is the only to tell for sure what is leaking and if the transom really is "goosed".

    The Boots leaking would certainly be the cheapest repair of any of the given scenarios ( Rotten Transom vs perished Rubber)

    I can't say for sure how much is involved in dropping the drives to inspect these Boots or if it is even required, no doubt someone with experience with these drives will read this and post with their is experiences.
  7. C4ENG

    C4ENG Senior Member

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    I was taught that when and if the gell coat fails on a glass composite haul that micro orginisms will start to grow in the glass, then seperating the material causing rott. Poeple doing the repairs should have a devise for detecting the amount of moisture in the glass which I am assuming they did. After seeing how much moisture was in your haul they must had felt your vessel needed to dry out for what ever time before proper repair could be done. I have seen this before in ship yards...
  8. Ken Bracewell

    Ken Bracewell Senior Member

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    From the initial post, it is my understanding that they haven't used a moisture meter yet- and that they are making an educated guess based on the water flow under different forces.

    My guess is that the transom on the CC (although I'm not sure) is a piece of marine plywood laminated between 2 thicknesses of fiberglass. This is common in fiberglass boat building and rotten wood is a common problem.
    I've even delayed a lengthy repair by sistering the interior of the transom with several piece of heavy plywood cut to match the transom and several lengths of angle-iron as a stop-gap to get me through the season (**legal disclaimer implied here**)
  9. elixer

    elixer New Member

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    You are correct, they have only inspected the boat in the water. They pulled it out Friday afternoon so I should hear something today. I was just a little concerned that they went right to the rotten transom so quickly when it seemed to me that it could be several things that would cause it to leak worse in reverse. They seem to be a reputable dealer so hopefully they will find the problem. They are telling me it will be a $6 - 7,000 fix if it's the transom. Thanks.
  10. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    Are the guys who are dealing with it now the same Co that did the bottom paint job when it was out of the water before?
  11. elixer

    elixer New Member

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    No, I didn't go back to them because they kept saying they really don't do this kind of work, don't have the ability to pull the engines if it is transom rot, and generally didn't seem too interesed in working on it. The one I went with did however replace outdrive boots last year.
  12. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    That last post sounds like they may have mis-diagnosed last year and she's been soaking for a long time. Are you sure this boat is worth the trouble and expense? Late 80's and early 90's were not great time for Chris if I remember right. Have you checked the moisture content through the rest of the hull?