I am getting ready to purchase a Roamer that needs some work. I am begining to plan my work and would like know if anyone has learned any tricks to remove the teak "trim" off the deck. I assume it is sealed down.
Replacing teak toe rail I removed the toe rail on our 41' Regal 3-4 years ago in preperation of re-painting. The things that caused us concern are the following. 1. I removed the teak in the winter and the wood was stored in a dry and warm environment. This caused the wood to dry out from its normal moisture content, best to store the wood where it is relatively in the same condition it will be when re-installing. Tought to realign all of those screw holes when the wood has shrunk, even though Teak is relatively stable it still moves. 2. I removed all of the plugs with a small drill bit to first create an opening in the center of the plug and then used a small 1/8" chisel end to break out the balance of the plug. Be careful not to get into the area outside of the plug. 3. I then removed the screws and when I was certain they were all out I used a very long putty knife blade to slide under the rail and break the bond with the GREY bedding material. 4. After the rails were out I scraped off the original begging with a sharp putty knife, this was a lot of work as the old bedding material is very stiff and sticky, and in a lot of areas it actually pulled the paint and the urethane coating off of the aluminum deck. This is where water intruded and started to corrode. 5. We repainted all of the deck area with a zinc chromate, and then a urethane layer. Then sanded for the Awl grip hi-build and paint layer. 6. When re-installing the toe rails, we used 3m 101 to bed the railing.we let it dry for 2-3 days before we tightened the screws as tight as possible. I used a 3m 4000 series to caulk the edge. 7. Reinstalling the plugs was a treat, I hired it out to a fellow who has the patience of a saint and he made all of the plugs from a used piece of toe rail we replaced. They all matched in color very nicely and he oriented the grain as well as he could. After gluing in place he used a special saw to trim them to height and finished with a very sharp chisel which left the surface flat enough to sand prior to finishing. We finished with Sikkens. Good luck on your restoration! Mark
Just Teaky For getting the glue out from between the boards: http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...+MultiMaster+Teak+Blades+for+Boat+Deck+Repair
Thanks Mark for all of the good information. I am sure you will see many more posts from me in the future.
Mark, In thinking about your post, did you have any problems removing the screws? The boat I am looking at is an aluminum hull and I assume the screws are stainless steel. Any problems with dissimilar metal corrosions or gaulding? Chuck
toe rail screw removal I had very little difficulty in removing the screws except where the water had intruded and started the corrosion. My hull is also aluminum, the screws were either stainless or a silicon bronze. Cannot remember now! Only had to drill out one of about a hundred! Mark
