teak and holly laminate flooring

Hi Kismet,

I have no knowledge of this material, but I am using another called Flexiteek on our production boats. It is a PVC-based material, very similar to real teak, easy to clean, really non-skid even when wet and only drawback is that it is as sensitive as real teak when it comes to stains of oil and grease. But it can be protected by a sealer to reduce this risk. Have a look at their website where you can also find your nearest dealer. http://www.flexiteek.no/

Teak and Holly sole

Hi Kismet,
I am updating my 45 ft Chris craft Tournament fisherman, sure would like to know about a "Teak and Holly Sole" material. If you find out any info please let me know.
Thanks,
Don

Everware Marine Flooring

I am also looking for it. Or any 'maintenance free' teak and holly look flooring.
Everware appears to be a registered trademark but who owns it?
If anybody can shed some light on this I'd appreciate it. Or any other like product.

Thanks
Dave

Synthetic teak

There is a company in Akron Ohio that makes a product that they call Plas-
teak. It looks identical to teak, but does not have any of the maintenance requirements. Look them up on the web.

The only references to everwear on the internet point to Luhrs Marine Group companies. So either its their own trademark or its poorly marketed by the original manufacturer.

Here is a link to Amtico Flooring. They produce marine synthetic wood flooring. Their products are flooring that Hatteras and many other boat builders install in most of their yacht interiors. By the way they meet the fire standards of IMO and MED/MRA.


http://www.amtico.com/Main/products...pcs=6998&ss=8415&g=1&psvnv=3&psvbr=5&fcpm=psv

How about this

http://www.worldpanel.com/Marineplywoodsspecialty.htm

Is 'Pergo' good enough for Marine ap?

Laminate floors are constructed using two different methods of manufacture: Direct Pressure Laminate (DPL) and High Pressure Laminate (HPL). Direct pressure laminate is made up of three layers, while a High Pressure Laminate is made up of a minimum of 5 layers. Is one better than the other? Yes. HPL is a far superior product. The addition of Phenolic Treated Kraft Sheets make the HPL a far stronger, more dent resistant and stable product. The catch is that they come with a higher price tag. Do you need HPL in your home? No. Most laminate floors sold in the US are (DPL) and are built for today’s active households. However if you are looking for a floor that will withstand the vigour of small children and large pets and still look good in 15 years time, then High Pressure Laminate is a good alternative.


Laminate cores range in thickness from 6mm to 12mm, with a thicker core usually denoting a more stable product. The only exception to this rule is High Pressure Laminate (HPL), which although has a much thinner core compared to (DPL), is stronger and more durable. Composition of core material is also an important factor. A good laminate floor is constructed using High density Fiberboard (HDF) as the core material, which has been treated with water repellent chemicals, offering stability and a high level of water resistance.

Joint integrity can be an important factor, especially when placing heavy items on your laminate floors. Laminate floors are engineered to withstand normal day to day wear and tear and are designed to withstand the weight of normal household furniture. If you wish to place an extra heavy item of furniture on you floors, such as a very large fish tank, you might want to consider purchasing a floor that has an aluminum locking system. Laminate floor joints should also be treated with water repellent chemicals, such as paraffin wax, which is impregnated into the tongue and groove of the floor boards.

A good laminate warranty should cover the following aspects: Fading, Denting, Wear and Tear, Staining and should have some kind of water warranty, although keep in mind that no laminate warranty covers flooding. Always be sure to scrutinize the duration of the different aspects of a laminate warranty, as a 25 year warranty might refer to manufacturers defects only, while the wear and tear aspect of the warranty only covers a 15 year period.


North American Laminate Flooring Association (NALFA): NALFA is the organization that sets the standards for laminate flooring in the USA. NALFA is a non profit organization, and its members are unpaid volunteers. Laminates submitted o NALFA undergo a range of stringent tests. If the laminate floor meets or exceeds NALFA standards, it will earn the right to display the NALFA seal of approval. Note that submission of laminate flooring to NALFA is voluntary. The following laminates carry the NALFA seal of approval: Pergo, Mannington, Wilsonart. A more complete list can be found by following this link: NALFA

Laminate floors are available in a plethora of wood grains, stains and designs. Recent advances have included textured surfaces and beveled edges, giving the product the look, feel and appeal of real hardwood. Laminate floors are now available in widths ranging from 2 ¼” wide to as much as 12” wide, offering a wide range of interior design options. Laminate floors will complement almost any décor and can be placed in every room of the home.

"Nothing beats real wood"

Cranky, I tagged your product site because it has some good attributes, especially the acoustical board. Generally, people miss the mark on acoustical control, and without side-tracking too much, you should recognize that the key to dampening an incoming direct-waveform is to disperse it at a 90-degree angle to it's source. This is best accomplished with a thick, (4mm) layer of dense vinyl that may be impregnated with metallic particles. Of course, this is way too heavy for our application, plus it creates a moisture-barrier that must then be acknowledged as an outermost surface if exposed to the elements.

Your plywoods offer little to the traditional sailer. As I see it, you are defeating the purpose of the expansion joinery, especially with a convex bend... Are we to allow for a full slip-joint at the devil rail? If this is to be an acoustical feature, you are right back to a double-lap seam to contain everything over 1khz.

Thus my earlier question about multi-core. With a uni-directional (balsa-like) substrate it follows that we can make everything flex at the same rate. Mind you, I'm not talking about a double-hull steel boat.

Is 'Pergo' good enough for Marine ap?

My answer is yes and no.

It can stand the environment, no doubt. But few boat owners can stand to have it onboard. (Other than on worktops).

It is too hard and slippery when wet, sometimes used on smaller open boats to give the look of teak, but on the more expensive boats and yachts I have not seen it.

Real teak outdoors and sometimes teak or other hardwoods on plywood indoors is what is usually found. These days also wood on light weight cores.

PVC based Flexiteek and siblings are good alternatives to real teak and is used also on some decks of the largest megayachts.

But Pergo, not really an alternative on yachts...

Lars has it!

Flexiteek has distribution in Ft. Lauderdale. That's the key. I see what you mean as the assembly really matches the application. They show both a sealer, and a registered approved glue. I'm sold, especially since it looks so convincing on your boat. Now, about that 'sheet size'; 9.5 meters?

As to the Pergo, I was under the impression they had a good slip-proof surface for commercial applications. I once photographed the smooth stuff as used on level surfaces, and the more bubbly stuff was used on some rampways in an elderly care center.

Perhaps Americans should concentrate more on said 'care,' and leave the flooring to the pros?

On Pergo, (a Swedish brand), I have never seen the soft or slip-proof products you mention, maybe it is something delivered by Pergo USA...?

Flexiteek ( a Norwegian brand) on the other hand is the most slip-proof material I have experienced, almost better when wet. They have had some issues with color fading, it usually gets darker, but it is becoming better. You can also sand it to regain the original surface.

Teak and Holly Laminate

It is avaliable in a bunch of diffrent places, Bring your calculator, they all charge diffrent and some demand that you use their glue etc. at any rate here goes,www.Defender.com When you log on to world panel they will show all the true sole products for the Teak and holly, you need to scroll down to get to the laminate. Oh take a good look at the Mahogany and holly, the color is diffrent it may be a better option for the Sea Ray. World panel is $169 DELIVERED!!!for 4X10 --the others sell in 6' X the yard or the foot. Plus shipping. Good luck!!

INTERESTING THREAD AND TIMELY FOR ME: I was told about a non-wood based composite flooring that looks like teak and holly. I have found the pergos, and looked at every link on this thread... Perhaps what I am looking for doesn't exist.

One of the links brought me to a tounge and groove product finished with laminate... but the concern is the seams,,, moisture gets in at every crack or seam,.. They are shipping a sample.

I have a racing sloop, with a fairly flat bottom, meaning no bilge to speak of.. 4-5" at best. When the boat heels as it is designed to do, any water in the bilge area hits the floor boards. With any wood based product, or even tounge and groove flooring, there is opportunity for water getting in, and expansion.

Before hearing about the composite look alike, I was planning to have built a custom solution ...flooring using high density foam board, wrapped in carbon fiber, then finished with a teak and holly veneer, epoxy sealed and finished... It will take a lot more time and work than I hoped, but will be strong, water proof, and light weight. Also with veneer, I won't have to worry about it looking like the real thing, it will be the real thing.

Anybody have experience with this?

Hi, what you describe will not be ideal I am afraid as teak needs to be thicker than a veneer to not dry out. Thin teak on decks have this problem and I suspect that indoors and just a veneer may go the same way.

I saw an artificial teak called Aikona recently and on the net I found a dealer selling both Flexiteek and Aikona. If you ask them, you can find out what differs between the two and what they suggest in your case: http://www.advancedmarinedecking.co.uk/aikona-decking.htm

Teak and Holly eneer

Thank you for your reply. I have seen the teak & holly veneer, and perhaps it is not really teak, but it is wood and comes in thin flat sheets. I was thinking if epoxy-ed onto a firm substrate, and then sealed and finished with thinned epoxy, and laquered over, it would serve the purpose... could even add some sort of non skid material into the epoxy to make it sticky.

I'll check the referenced product lines, Thanks for your input.

Tom

OK Tom, I had the impression you was after the non-skid properties of natural teak. If it is just the looks, your idea will probably work.

Hi AMG,
Yes I want the look of natural teak, the non skid properties, I want it light weight, and to last a long time, and I want it cheap!

Is that too much to ask!?


Tom