Switching to Spin On Filters

After you fill them, let the fuel settle in them and refill. The filter will absorb a little over the course of a minute. I would fill them as much as possible. You should be able to start the motors but it might take a few mins to work the air out. Why are you switching to spin on's anyways?

Spin-On Filters

I converted my 671's to spin-on filters about 7 years ago and have never regretted the change. I was having problems getting the "elements" for the old type filter.

I completely fill my spin-on prior to installing, fill the engine, run it for 10 minutes and check to level again, adding oil as required.

Works every time.

I'm confused. Was this about fuel or oil filters?

Hi,

I think the first poster was asking about Fuel Filters and the third one was saying about Oil Filters.

Thought it was me. For the record: Fill the fuel filters. Leave air/get air lock. No need to fill an oil filter. Put in the right amount of oil. Run the motor. It will circulate through the filter. Then let cool and check level.
Screw on fuel filters are fine, but I'd prefer them as secondary to a racor which can be checked on a glance.

I never have had a problem with canister filters being a mess. I also have never had a problem for finding the canister filters, even NAPA carry's them.

Detroit Diesels will usually work the air through the system if they're airlocked, although it does take a while.

Hi,

NYCAP- Filling up the spin on oil filters is good practice when you can.

The Lube Oil Pump supplies Oil to the whole engine but the first stop is usually the filter, larger engines have a separate Lube Oil priming pump that either runs pre start up as part of the start sequence ( MTU and newer CAT) or the operator must run it for a while to fill the galleries and filters etc.

Thanks K1W1, love to learn. That seems like a messy proposition though. Do they need to be full or just enough to prime?

Hi,

It's not as bad as you think as long as they are not mounted upside down .

Just stand the filter up in the box it came in or somewhere else it won't fall over and fill it up close to the thread section in the middle, leave it for a minute or so like with the Fuel Filters and then top it off to around the top of the holes in the top plate. You can also dip your finger into the oil in the middle and wipe a bit of it on the rubber gasket set into the top of the Filter itself.

I have just been reading something where it says that many manufacturers are switching back to Cartridge Type Filters citing the reduction in amounts of waste oil being thrown out with the filter and the ease/costs of recycling Cartridge Filters over Spin On Units.

So make the most of it these might not be around for ever.

Yeah, I was just thinking about those 1 & 5 gal. oil jugs and my friend Murphy (as in his law) .

DD Fuel filter

I changed to the spin on in my boat with 16-92's. Everybody has spin-on's, not nearly as many have the old canisters. Fill the filter as much as possible, (make sure to wet the o-ring) get it hand tight, start the engine and run for 10 minutes. I've never had a air lock doing this.

K1W1

Would love to know of someone who claims to recycle the oil from old filters. Once I hand it off the to dockhands, I have no idea where the oil or my oily trash goes. One has to hope that the marina has a recycling plan, but I am not aware of it.

As for the canisters, I had them on fuel & oil for 8V71's. Since the oil filter was mounted upside down 3/4 of an inch above the bilgeplate/stringer, changing them was never easy. The only place I still have canisters is on my reduction gear; if I could change those, I would do it. (There is no documentation for my gears, so I just keep replacing the existing canister elements)