Steel Hull protection system

Ivan,
I went through doing this whole job last spring on my 1966 37 Steel Roamer. I researched extensively what product to use and I settled on the Interlux system. There are other products out there such as Petit’s Rustloc that some guys will recommend, but as you mentioned all of the experts recommend either AWLGRIP or the Interlux system. I settled on the Interlux system because a.) My local boat store carries Interlux (international paints) not Awlgrip products, so it saved me shipping costs et cetera from buying elsewhere b.) Before hand I called the Interlux helpline/tech line and found them so useful that it made it hard to contemplate using another product (in fact I programmed their number into my speed dial on my phone!)
As far as your second question with regards to price, it has a lot to do with the current condition of your hull. I would talk to the guy a little more and find out what he foresees will need to be done i.e. extensive plating, fairing. This has a lot to do with the amount of labour and materials that go into the job. But, just as an estimate I ‘sub’ contracted out the work on my boat for the sandblasting and welding last spring. Paid $1100. (cash) for sandblasting – a day and a half of work for two guys. $1000 (cash) for plating, this was a high price but I wanted it done right (managed to find a guy who previously built boats for the Canadian Coast Guard). Total Interlux materials costs were approximately $2500.00. Friends, and I did the rest of the work which if I had to guess worked out to approximately 100 hours of work, so without labour it cost me $3600.00 (Canadian), which depending on the day is about $3500USD or $10 USD ;-). So in short, I would say this guy sounds a bit expensive provided your hull is decent shape, BUT this is not a job you want to have done twice…it really does pay to have it done right the first time.

Regards,
Jonathan.

ZINGA

Has anyone tried zinga?
http://www.zingacoating.com/
If so should an epoxy based system go on top of this?
Will Interlux paints bond well to this?

Ivan,
Prior to the sandblasting the Hull looked decent, we decided to sandblast the boat b/c we just purchased it a year prior and were not sure what really was under all the bottom ‘paint’ - in short it was for peace of mind. We definitely did not expect the hull to be in as poor of shape as we thought it was, but it fairness this is our first steel boat and really had nothing to compare to. Our welder said it was in great shape for a boat of her age and that we did a very smart thing by stripping it down and plating as needed, and then some…therefore I would say some of the plating was very obvious i.e. holes that had gone right through the hull, and in other areas there was evidence of electrolysis (pin holes) which we plated as well, again for peace of mind. The rear corners on our boat were in good shape; after sandblasting it was obvious that someone had previously plated the port stern portion (not actually on the stern, but on the port side of the boat, below the waterline towards the stern).

As far as the inside goes, it was generally in great shape, except along the V as the previous owner had let water sit in throughout the winter. We cleaned it out thoroughly and painted all the areas with Petits Rustloc, including all areas that were welded on the outside – this is a must as the welding will burn the paint off on the inside and leave raw/exposed steel – not good!

Lastly, we had additional Zinc added to the stern; we had the welder weld two stainless bolts to the stern to mount the zinc, then just bolted it on. Total cost less than $100, and again in my mind some good preventive maintenance.

I have
Presumably the best product overseas
Comes on gray only, mil speck
I will use it this summer
Adam