I have two of these clearviews. Both draw water into the internal space when operating at full revs (1700RPM) which renders them useless. I have installed and reinstalled, exactly as per specification. Water seems to be sucked in, over the lip that sits under the rotating outer ring. Even the lightest spray across the window starts this process. Mine are 24V units. When I run them at about half revs, they seem to stay dry, but at full revs they are doing the opposite of what they should. Water is sucked in. They are rotating in the right direction. The drain hole is at the bottom. Revs have been checked with a tacho. All gaskets are perfect and installed as per the installation instructions. Anyone out there with any suggestions? I am at my wit's end.
Did you correctly measure the thickness of the glass and pass that needed information along with your order .
No, all the action with the Speich is on the outside of the window. It’s sealed. The seals are all new.
I'm not to heavy with these gizmos but I do have a question; Is the drive motor in the assembly or remote and mini belt drive? Can you send a close picture of your final assembly. I may not be able to help but I luv to learn new things. Thx, rc
You may not know much about these gizmos, but you have already raised two things that I hadn’t considered. Thickness of the glass and the possibility of a pressure differential. I’m confident that these are not the problem, but will be added to the list of things considered. The glass is 1/4 “ laminated safety glass.
You installed 2 and both leak ? Page 3 of 5 of the pdf is depicting the basic mechanical install portion, minus the electrical ? Are these Brand new ? New old stock ? Something else ? All the questions are necessary because we have to go down a fault tree. Next questions or information asked is dependent on how your answer these. Post a picture of the installation, remember to resize it to meet forum rules ,no more than 800 pixels wide.
Clear View Screens (also called “Spinner Windows”) works on the simple principle to keep a glass disk free from rain, splashing water and snow by putting it in fast rotation. The motor is placed in the center and is fastened to the fixed glass in order to obtain the largest possible sight field. The rotating glass is hardened and optically rectified to avoid any optical distortion. All metal parts are made of brass. A specially designed manifold between the ring surrounding the rotating glass and the fixed frame keeps water from entering the space between the fixed and rotating glass; this space can optionally be heated by electric resistance to avoid condensation and ice formation, which could prevent proper operation.
On page 1 of the pdf there is a hint, it say operating temperature is -30 c to 40 c that's -22 f to 104 f for us USA folk. The brass ,glass, heater and motor wouldn't care, so that leaves……. 1: Their specially designed manifold is made out of something in that operating temperature range or...…….. 2: Their specially designed secret sauce on it is. Haven't played "CLUE" since I was a Kid...…….If YF could get a reliable first CLUE in the Westport accident, the members here would have that problem solved by the end of the day.
It continues to be a mystery to me. Today, we put a resistor in the line to reduce the voltage to 12V at the motor. This has roughly halved the RPM from 1700 to 850 So far, not water, but I need to test at sea this weekend. Running at the correct RPM (1700) both my Speich spinners act like water magnets, drawing it in until the inside space gets wet and foggy. Mystery.