Has anyone replaced their shower sump system? Is there a drop in, or near drop in, current model replacement? Mine serves the head sink and the shower, so is almost always powered on. During my investigation of unknown battery drains I found the shower sump system, when not actually running, was pulling 160 mA. I'm guessing it is current leakage through the float switch that is not enough to actually turn the pump on but flows through the active motor coil. I'm considering replacing the whole system rather than trying to just replace the float switch. Thanks
Rule and Johnson make ready made sumps currently. Others are most Rule based with a factory box-bucket-sump. Can you offer a picture? I recall the big issue of Rule base sumps is they used the caged float switch rather than the clip in/out bilge float switch. The clip in/out does not fit their sump box's correctly. We still use the 46 year old Raritan sumps with Rule pumps and float switches.
Bought a replacement just like that unit at West Marine a year ago. It’s a complete unit that includes box, pump and float switch. Readily available
That is the original Rule sump that has been modified to use the clip in/out float switch. Originally was the caged switch. Rule had abandoned their mercury switches many years ago and use a mechanical (cherry) switch. This later switch had had a lot of issues. We went thru a pile of them for us and our customers. Seems we went thru many before installing a good one in many installs. Those good ones seem to still be working well. If it is leaking current, swap that switch out and try again vs replacing the whole sump. Mind you the screw (mounting) holes do not match the original (caged) switch. Hopefully the original holes were sealed properly and the base of the new clip in/out switch was bedded correctly. Then clip in/out a new float switch. Many times the newer float switch interferes with the tubular screen. Watch out for that also.
Thanks. Unfortunatly it is no longer made/available. They show a 24V version with a few left but no 12V. There is a replacement, 98B-12, with a different inlet/outlout configuration. Not sure if would work since the hose from the drain tee is so short. Will try to find dimensions for the new and old unit and compare. Might be able to re-locate it further away to allow longer hose run.
Had to look it up, 98B @ 800 GPH and 99B at 1100 Gph. From the product info; "Friction Fit Pump and Switch – no more screws to fiddle with, the pump is a friction fit and the float switch snaps into the base". So Rule probably further standardized and went all with he clip in/out float switch. So, what is wrong with fixing what you have? On my 34 years ago, I found a FRP box and made my own sump. Later I found a plastic checker/chess board to fasten down over it for the splash cover. Not required but looked cool.
I'll have to pull the cover and see if I can find which switch it is. I've never seen a clip in/out one before. It was hard to get the screem to clear the float when I pulled it for cleaning. Rule says the 98B is a drop-in replacement, but it doesn't look like the 1.5" hose location is the same, so would probably need to seal old mount holes and move. Only issue with replacing the swtich is knowing which one and working through the wiring rats nest outside the box.
If you're up for a total replacement take a look at these Trionic sumps. A little spendy but I've used them on my last two boats and highly recommend them. 2 Gallon - 12 Volt Marine SuperSump® Shower Sump Tank - ST-6075 - Trionic Corp - Trionic Corp. Dock Boxes, Water & Holding Tanks, Buoys
Those look interesting. Do you know what brand and model pump and float switch they use? Curious they don’t list it in the specs, or at least not that I saw.
Yes, they use Johson cartridge pumps and the Ultima electronic float switches. I have three females on board and never have to clean the sump when combined with these in the shower drains. Amazon.com: TubShroom Tub Hair Catcher Protector, Fits 1.5" - 1.75" Drain, Gray : Tools & Home Improvement