shore power

Assuming you have 120/240v power. Be sure both 120v legs have power at the pedestal. Then check to see if you have both 120v legs on the boat.

You re kidding,right? No info on boat, what type of shore power, panel set up etc. and you expect intelligent replies???

My apologies for the lack of info. This was my Uncles boat that passed last April. I have been working on it for six months to get it back to it's former condition. I have been a boater for many years but this is my first time with this size. I will try to be more specific in the future. The cord I purchased was a 10/3 30 amp. I am getting power to the panel. The microwave time display comes on. That is all I am getting. After flipping the switches (Converter, outlet, stove, etc.) to the on position nothing had power. I appreciate any help you can provide.

I will take photos and post. Thank you. I purchased;

Conntek Marine Shore Power 10/3 30 Amp Cordset with Light Indicator (Yellow, 50-Feet)

Thanks again

What kind of boat?? Take a picture of the panel and post it

Odd that the microwave time comes on, does the microwave itself work?

Are there two connectors for cords, and do you have two cords running to them? There should (might?) be circuit breakers right at those connectors for the cords, check those are in first. Then go to the panel, there should be a meter for AC (shore) power coming in, and possibly a switch to check the starboard and port incoming power. There should be separate panels for starboard and port power, with a main switch for each side. Until you see power at the meter and you turn on the power for at least one panel, you won't have anything but battery power to your boat. If you don't have battery power, there should be a separate panel with main switch for DC power.

Once you have power to each side of your AC panels, you can start turning on individual circuits on those panels for things like stove, lighting, battery charger. If your boat is in the water, keeping the batteries charged is pretty important, as your bilge pumps should be wired directly to them.

Before you power up anything, what condition is this boat in? Specifically, what condition is the electrical system in? If there is any doubt about the integrity of the electrical wiring and components, DO NOT POWER UP THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM UNTIL AN ELECTRICIAN HAS CHECKED AND APPROVED IT. This is not an area to save money on, ever.

And pictures of the boat and electrical panel would make this a lot easier for you and us. This site isn't the easiest to post pictures to, ask if you need help with that. You might get a lot more specific help from a forum for that specific brand boat.

FWIW, I had a shore power issue that essentially was inadequate power on 1 leg. Turned out nothing was wrong--the screw collar on the cord was preventing full contact with the connector. I removed the screw collar and problem solved!

Just curious.
Could you tell if the manufactures were different between the inlet ( or outlet ) and the cord end ?
I have had a problem mixing, say, Hubbell and Marinco as an example. Although they are supposed to be manufactured to the same standard, the did not inter connect well.

No my issue was the connection between the cable and the shore power inlet

Me too on 50's . I usually blame it on the corrosion of the outlet of the transient slip.

I have had problems with molded 30 amp plugs not wanting to seat to the outlet ( for customers.) but now I can't remember if it was Hubbell or Woodhead outlets.