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seperating coupler from shaft

Discussion in 'Technical Discussion' started by Beau, Oct 12, 2014.

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  1. Beau, Oct 12, 2014
    #1
    Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    View attachment 67754 Folks, I have been trying everything from hammers, chemical, flame and a 10 ton ram to separate by engine couplers from 2 1/2 inch tapered shaft. No luck. Any suggestions
  2. NYCAP123, Oct 13, 2014
    #2
    NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    Have you tried Kroil oil?
  3. Beau, Oct 13, 2014
    #3
    Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    I have not NYCAP, candidily I never heard of it?? Guess I should get to know it...
  4. K1W1, Oct 13, 2014
    #4
    K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    I could swear there was a thrwad about this already.

    Try and set your up like in this rough sketch. I apologise for the lack of scale or neat drawing

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 13, 2014
  5. Beau, Oct 13, 2014
    #5
    Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    Couldn't delete my second post ( or didn't know how). Thanks K1W1. , exactly my plan except that I will put s steel plate on the engine side
  6. Capt Ralph, Oct 13, 2014
    #6
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Steel plate and not use the tinsel of the flange? Nor the pre drilled holes, 8 (10) of them? Nor the space saving, it's already there? It may take all 8 (10) of the bolts to pop dat sucka.
    You may have a better idea with some plate, but I don't see it.
  7. Capt Ralph, Oct 13, 2014
    #7
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Good sketch.
  8. Old Phart, Oct 13, 2014
    #8
    Old Phart

    Old Phart Senior Member

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    I dunno
    Ralph's comment +2; but my neck cramped.

    Took the liberty of turning the sketch 90 degrees.

    K1W1Sketch4Beau.jpg
  9. K1W1, Oct 13, 2014
    #9
    K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Get the lump of steel inbetween the shafts ends and crank up on the bolts - you will be amazed by the loading of a circular bolt arrangement on Hi tensile 3/4" bolts. Use hard washers under the head of nuts and bolts and lube them. Use a flogging spanner if you don't want to damage your showroom ones.
  10. K1W1, Oct 13, 2014
    #10
    K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    I did that on the fly , sorry I missed the orientation.
  11. dsharp, Oct 13, 2014
    #11
    dsharp

    dsharp Senior Member

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    I don't think the op's thinking it through. It's not going to put damaging pressure on the crankshaft, you're pulling against the coupling on the reduction gear. Pull it up tight and smack the coupling on the side; hold a backup on the opposite side of the coupling with a sledge. Easier with two people. Or pull it up tight and get after it with the heat.
  12. Beau, Oct 13, 2014
    #12
    Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    You guys are correct. I had the crank end and the gear end confused. Still, I am going to crank those bolts against a plate rather than the engine side flange or the gear itself
  13. Old Phart, Oct 16, 2014
    #13
    Old Phart

    Old Phart Senior Member

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    I dunno
    All's well that ends well.

  14. Capt Ralph, Oct 16, 2014
    #14
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    While it's apart, I hope you're sending the shaft, coupler and flange to the shop for checking and surface cleaning. While that rear flange is off, a new rear seal. It's in your hands now, get it all checked out and serviced now. Could be years before it's looked at again.
    Then again, you are doing an engine alignment before you leave the dock; Matched surfaces it make that more precise.
    Don't cut corners. That is already an old rear seal. It's near in your hands now.
  15. Beau, Oct 16, 2014
    #15
    Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    Rcrapps

    As usual, excellent advice. The coupler and bolts are all nicely buffed and repainted already, shafts have been mic'ed with no scoring and turn true, and the rear seal inspected and dry, props and seats have been checked and balanced and awaiting installation as soon as I slide the shaft up. New dripless are partially installed. The shafts and rear seals will stay put for now. But I have a nice white pad beneath everything, and the first drip...well I now know how to get those couplers off. But thank you for that sound advice
  16. Capt Ralph, Oct 16, 2014
    #16
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Well then When do we go water skiing? You go first..
    ,rc
  17. Beau, Oct 16, 2014
    #17
    Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    sad to admit that my water skiing days are far behind me, but I'd be honored to join you for a virtual cocktail celebrating your advice and the success of get those couplers off! Mines a vodka with grapefruit juice - enjoying it as I type.
  18. Capt Ralph, Oct 16, 2014
    #18
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Ah, Now you're hitting my soft spots (kidneys).
    Yep, cheap rum here.

    And, I'm off duty, Rum is always in hand when I type. Thru the years, I'm sure some can tell.

    Ya pass thru Jax, We'll make it a real toast.
    ,rc
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2014
  19. dsharp, Oct 16, 2014
    #19
    dsharp

    dsharp Senior Member

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    Now would also be a good time to see how the shafts are riding in the shaft logs before you pull the hose over the log and tighten it all up. When you align the engine rotate the coupling 180 degrees and make sure the gap stays in the same place. That will give you a general idea if the coupling is true on the shaft. The ideal way is have the shaft chucked in a lathe with the coupling mounted and measure the runout. unless you've hit something or chasing a vibration you should be fine.