Polish and Waxing Your Yacht - What Do You Use

+1 on the Collinite.

What's recommended for 8 year old awlgrip? ( besides repainting! Ha ha)

I understand newish awlgrip should be compounded or waxed. But is it worth a try to compound and wax?

Where did you get an understanding that newish Awlgrip should be compounded or waxed?

1. Do not use traditional waxes. General: Traditional waxes break down rapidly. The residue can cause the topcoat to appear yellow, plus it attracts dirt. This creates the need to maintain the wax, increasing overall maintenance. Traditional waxes which contain no abrasives probably do little harm to the coating, but offer no benefit. Awlgrip has developed Awlcare Protective Polymer Sealer 73240 for those who want to enhance their finish and need the additional cleaning power of a hand applied, dry wash product

2. Do not use abrasives, scratch pads or polishing compounds. Scratching the surface gives dirt a place to cling while wearing out the resin layer. Using abrasives of any kind will reduce the overall life of the finish and voids the Awlgrip Limited Warranty.

While there are products designed and acceptable for "waxing" Awlgrip, the above sections from their manual provide warnings as to care. Similarly Alexseal has their own instructions.

Now the OP's question was regarding Gelcoat. This is just following up on your post.

And I suggest the same with Awlgrip and Alexseal and Teak and all other surfaces. Go to the manufacturers site or manual and follow it carefully. Awlgrip could also tell you what products other than the ones they make are acceptable. Alexseal actually lists others on their site.

+1 on the Collinite, also like the 850 Metal Wax

I have used Permanon for the last 8 years and its been great. No waxing.

First thing is don't use Never-Dull until / unless the stainless is rusting, and then only as much as necessary. You don't want to use any abrasives unless absolutely necessary. Keep the stainless coated. Everybody claims to have the magic potion, but what isn't as important as how often. I've always used CRC-656, but Corrosion-X is also good as is waxing with various products. Boeshield T-9 is great for the stainless near the waterline, as it leaves a hard shield, but it yellows. So don't use it on the stainless that's on display.

Most of the stainless produced for boats today is good, but salt will eventually get to all. You, being in Michigan (fresh water), should have very little problem from it but you do have acid rain. That's also why you need to keep up with the topsides wax even though you're not subject to the salt and UV rays of Florida.

I'd add to CaptJ to wax the topsides and transom at least one more time mid-season as the topsides have the sun beating on it and the transom you always want looking good. Plus it makes cleaning any diesel soot off easier.

Lots of memories from this thread as I paid my way through college detailing yachts. Key things from my experience:
-Makita buffer is a must, random orbitals are useless. Heat generated from a spinner gets the wax in, imho.
-Rain dance paste had ridiculous longevity, this thread inspired me to get some off Ebay the other day for my truck. NuFinish paste is great as well, and readily available.
-FinesseIt 2 is a great light polish when compound is just too much. I did a black Fountain with this before I waxed it, really took care of the light scratches.
-Thumbs up on the Corrosion-X and the Boeshield!

I stopped using true waxes years and years ago. Zaino, Pro Polish, Rejex, Exhaust Guard, etc. way out last old school waxes. And you get far less dirt rain streaks. Plus the ones you do get come off far easier.

All of those products can be used on SS as well as glass too.

This stuff works great on stainless & aluminum. The new sealer keeps the product working for about 6 months. Woody Wax with sealer. Also can be lightly brushed on the non skid cockpit floor to keep stains off.

I guess I've always some how managed to pick a day below the magic temperature number. I have not had trouble with it yet.

But then again, if you read the web site closely, you'll see there is nothing magic about the "85" deg. number after all.

"When ambient temperatures are above 85° F, RejeX should be applied out of direct sunlight. If the surface is too hot, the coating will dry before it has properly bonded to the surface, and it won’t last to its full potential. If the surface becomes hot to the touch, cool by rinsing liberally with water, dry, then apply Rejex."

You just apply it late in the day.

You can buy it at B.O.W. as well as other places here in S. FL. So somebody must be using it from time to time besides me.

I bow to the superior knowledge of some one who has never used it. And I will never use it in South Florida again.