Tech is saying the reason all high water alarm lights are lighting is due to a circuit board made by Pan Electric for Bertram. Anyone been through this. Unable to find company.
I have had my hands in a few of the Hatterass boards. They can be a challenge. There is a Hatt shop in Miami that may help. They may at least point you in a better direction. https://hatterassystemsmonitor.com/contact-us If you hit that wall, let me have a peek.
Seems the board could be replaced with 4 small relays if need be so will see what they say as well as that of the two techs still working on the project.
Thanks for the lead. Henderson Marine Electronics doesn't seem to think the board is bad but will explore more on Monday. Looks like the Hatteras system very similar.
If it does turn out to be a bad PCB, search on the internet for repair sites. I had a wine cooler PCB repaired by a shop in Florida, was cheap (relatively) and easy.
For some reason the option to attach photos here has vanished. Evidently the circuit board is very basic and I found a supply site to send all new "chips" which are basically electronic plug-in relays so maybe I'll get lucky and if not will give Flight Systems a shout.
Yes, A few sensing IC relays (inputs), a few light or alarm IC relays (outputs) and a few power regulators are what your finding as plug ICs. I would offer to check the regulator ICs first. You should have 3 or 4 of them pending your application. each engine, the ship and optionally, the gen-set(s). However, I have also been cursed with bad/cold solder joints on the board and bad senders thru the boat. Currently tracing down a bad heat sender on an ole Hatt.
There are 4 separate boards; all appear the same. At first it appeared only the one for H/W & ER heat senders was messed up but learned a couple days ago when running each main the 4 new LED's for each also light up and when pressing the test button they turn off so seems like something wired in reverse. One board labeled Port, one Starboard, one E/R alarms, and the 4th no label so thinking must be generator. Tech that did the rewire will be on board in the AM for better or worse. Also noticed when ordering the replacement "chips" the other day, it said they were 12 v. so I'm wondering if tech somehow fed mine with 24 v. and that's what caused the top resister to brown the board under it although the resister itself appears fine and did show some resistance on test meter.
The chips I deal with are 5v. That is why I was commenting on regulator ICs. The difference between 12 & 24v boards are the regulators on the ole Hatts. Gen-set 12v, then mains (24v?) and house (24v?), so at least one is a lil different. Do any of the boards work? Use that as a test bed. With a logic probe, create a table of what is high / low pending open / shorted inputs. Following the serial etches help figure the signal path thru the ICs. Wish you could get a bunch of macro pics uploaded.
One different thought, I'm sure the new Bertram company has not a clue, but maybe has a lead on who can guide you on this. I'm thinking high tide marine could point you to some shop or ole tech if that doesn't pan out.. http://www.hightidemarine.cc/ Is this the board?
Yes that looks like the possible problem child. Yesterday I emailed Danny at Hightide about it, Yesterday I had two techs from the marine electronics company that wired the new dash panel, trace each individual wire from the bridge LED's & switches to the board in the ER to triple check they had that correct, and today the man from Hatteras Electronics in Miami is driving up here to hopefully, find what went wrong & maybe identify what the 4th board that does not have any label on the aluminum box in the E/R, is for. Yesterday one of the guys put a meter on the bottom left side lead and found that board was being fed with 9 volts and the chips on it were warm but the generator was not running and still have no clue what that board is for. The others are fed with 24 volts. They continue to believe the E/R High Water board is bad as before removing it when ALL of the wires on the left side that feeds it from the various senders were removed, the 4 new LED's on the bridge were still on. I had found a supply shop online that sells the little plug in chips (relays) and have 10 of them on the way. Figured to just plug in all new ones and hope for the best, but as I've told them, I still do not believe the board is bad as it, and the other two were all working fine when the old dash panel was still wired. The 3 H/W lights that are also on the panel in the Salon only all first lit up AFTER the first tech had disconnected ALL the dash panel wires. Those 3 remained lit down there for the entire month while the new dash panel was being made and then when installed the 3 new LED's up there also lit up. I wish the attach option here had not vanished but I'll email you the photos.
I think the chips on the left are different from the right side chips (in & out chips). All of the same may be inserting more issues. We hit a positive point on that Hatterass alarm system yesterday; Identified THE bad (intermittent) fire sensor that has been driving us crazy for a couple of years. Engines running or not, at anchor or on the dock, shore power or either gen-set, hot or cold, day OR NIGHT, that $^*&ng fire alarm would go off for a few seconds.
Looking at the one board that was removed, all 8 of the chips are the same. ALEPH 95212, DA1A12BW. I believe the 12 indicates 12 v. and their supposedly single pole single throw relays. Once had the fire alarm go off like 2am on the 38. Turned out one of the E/R heat sensors had internally shorted out. Little worse then trying to hunt an intermittent problem.
Had a reply from Danny @ High Tide; if send him the board he can have it repaired or a new one built as per the Bertram Schematic, but Les from Henderson Marine Electronics in Miami found the board was good and the problem was the test button on the bridge, and one of the twin boards, had a bad plug in chip (relay). He also found the 4th circuit board is for the alarm on the black & greywater tanks and in the salon panel 3 of the old indicator lights blown so thanks for the leads, and for your info, Les travels all over and is now knowledgeable on Bertram systems.
