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Overcharging Alternator

Discussion in 'Ocean Yacht' started by alvareza, Jul 6, 2023.

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  1. alvareza

    alvareza Member

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    My STBD Delco-Remy 35SI alternator on a Series 60 seems to be overcharging. Goes up to 15.4 volts and likely higher if I continued to increase RPM.

    This is how it looks:
    upload_2023-7-6_16-24-32.jpeg

    The top wire runs up to the the Flybridge and goes to the momentary start switch or ignition. The next wire down goes to the battery switch AFD position.

    The instructions that came with the replacement alternator make me think this alternator has the field exciting wire and battery sensor wires reversed.

    upload_2023-7-6_16-30-47.jpeg

    The Port alternator is wired the same as the STBD.

    Normally I would wire the new one same as the old. However, the diagram and a sticker on the alternator make it clear that battery sense is the top lug.

    Making myself crazy. Had to dismantle the cable master to access to STBD alternator. Trying to get this right the first time.
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2023
  2. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Battery sense from the ignition switch is not to smart. A wires goes to the helm, then back the the alternator. Lots of voltage drop in those wires and as age comes on, more resistance.
    Soon your alternator is screaming to get that sense level up. Then, over charges the batteries.

    If you are NOT using a diode battery isolation, wire the sense rite to the battery out put.

    If you are using diode battery isolation, wire the sense to the starter battery side of the isolation diode.

    If you feel you must turn the sense off by key switch, Wire in a relay as I have done on my boat. Connects battery to the sense lead, controlled by the key switch.
    PM me if a diagram is needed.
  3. alvareza

    alvareza Member

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    How can I check to see if there is diode battery isolation?
  4. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Where does the alternator B+ lead go?
    Straight the the battery post on the starter?
    Straight to the battery?

    Or, to some weird looking gizmo with similar sized wire/cabled connected to it.

    th-2549168738.jpg
  5. alvareza

    alvareza Member

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    No diode battery isolation. Alternator positive battery terminal is connected directly to bus on the battery bank. I’m planning to wire the sense line directly to the battery bank. It’s about a 4’ run. Should it go to a battery or the bus bar?

    I’ll wire the line from the ignition switch to the field excitation terminal. I verified it is providing power ~12v when ignition is switched on. I suspect I could use this line to power the sense relay.

    What is the benefit of switching the sense relay to only connect when the engine is on?
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2023
  6. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Last edited: Jul 7, 2023
  7. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Some engineer wanted to make an extra penny.
    Some other folk thought it was better not to store an engine with a hot lead on the engine.
    I have no solid good answer. But it does mess things up at times.

    Question; Series 60 at 12Volt, not 24V??
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2023
  8. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Trying to use the computer on our boat. MigraineSoft has made obsolete another one of my scanner/printers.
    Unable to scan and send a diagram till I get back to the compound.

    I use standard Bosch type relays for 12 & 24V projects.
    Install the relay between the B+ and sense post. Key-switch and ground will enable the relay.
    Pretty easy to hook up if needed.
  9. alvareza

    alvareza Member

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  10. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    No new text. Please try again.
  11. alvareza

    alvareza Member

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    It is 12v. 2 battery banks with 2 group 31 in each. A solenoid parallels the two bank to start engines.
  12. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Is this a new boat to you?
    What two banks are solenoid paralleled together to start?
    House and that engine batt? The other engine bank?
    Or like some other mfg's,, 2 x 12v batts twisted by a fancy solenoid to make 24V at the starter?

    Oh heck, I looked at the top.. It's an Ocean Mfg.
    They did the twisted solenoid thing for the 24v starters on some rigs.
    And, Ocean did use diode idolators on some other rigs.

    Do you have the ships electrical prints?
    I'm hoping some other Ocean Yacht members can chime in and help also on this.

    Massachusetts?? Sheet, to far aweigh,,, Rats..
    Why are the good bugs always to far aweigh??
  13. alvareza

    alvareza Member

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    Relatively new, on our 5th year with it. Boat did not come with any manuals. Wish I had detailed electrical plans like my former Pursuit. Made many things easier. Picture below came from another earlier Ocean. It represents what I have, but not a lot of detail.

    The starters are 12v. The solenoid does not seem fancy a basic NAPA part. The only diodes I have found are on either side of the battery parallel solenoid to avoid the starting of one engine crossing the solenoid to start the other. I replaced these a couple of years ago.

    upload_2023-7-8_7-4-9.jpeg

    We are planning to bring the boat down to FL in the Fall. Making our way to the West Coast, Redington Shores. Drinks on me when we are in your neighborhood
  14. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I think it is weird but I do understand it.
    Your two G31 batteries are for starting and the house.
    For starting, the batts are tied in parallel to provide the current required to turn the engine over.
    Each engines alternator charges its one battery.

    Any one battery or alternator, failure will probably ruin your day.

    Have you considered more batteries and an auto charging relay (ACR)?


    I'm sorry, I digressed.
    You alternator bolted back on yet?
  15. alvareza

    alvareza Member

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    Just got the pulley cleanly off the old one after. Cutting the shaft nut in half. Figuring out how to torque the shaft nut on the new one without damaging the pulley.
  16. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    If you don't have an air impact gun, going to be fun. Some shaft ends have an Allen socket in the end. Use that and a offset box wrench. Or just take it to a shop or garage and have them zip in tight for you.
  17. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Got a funny for ya; Were back on our own dock. The power is down for there area.
    Were tied up and still on our big gen-set.
    Were ice cool and the neighbors are on their porches because it's to hot to go inside.
    I got to rub it in. HA
    alvareza likes this.
  18. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Lights and power restored on land. Were staying on the boat another night, just a short walk from our house.
    Kats know were home. But we can't let them out tonight.

    You plugged in and water skiing yet?
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2023
  19. alvareza

    alvareza Member

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    When I got the reman alternator out of the box the shaft nut would not spin on by hand and there was a metal grinding sound when I turned the shaft. Pit did not seem right. Returning it and looking for a new one tomorrow.

    Not getting a reman this time
  20. alvareza

    alvareza Member

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    Installed the alternator. Started the engine alternator was charging correctly. Went to shut engine down and it would not turn off. Had to cut the wire running from the alternator ignition terminal to the engine to shut it off.

    I think the alternator was putting power to ignition run circuit as opposed to the start circuit.

    Thinking to put connections back to the way it was with the ignition wire for battery sense and excitation wire direct from the battery.