MTU oil and fuel filters 10v2000

Why would you want to? I ALWAYS run factory filters on every engine. Unless I cannot get factory filters. I know they're up to the engine manufacturers standards and not going to deviate to something else to save 10%.

Oil Filters can be purchased from NAPA #7609
I will have to order Fuel Filters direct from MTU #0010920301, which has proven to be expensive and challenging due to them being German...

They are expensive, like $80 each and if I remember correctly each motor takes 2. Buy your oil filters from MTU as well if not just for piece of mind. You will ALSO need the oil filter crush washers for the can bolts and drain bolts, also some for the bleeder bolt on the secondary fuel filters as well. Always use fresh crush washers everytime you take the bolts out.

Run 10 micron filters in your racors to extend the life of your secondary fuel filters.

Regretfully I didn't replace the washers when I changed the oil. I was lazy. Most folks replace the fuel filters every year, do you think it's required if we run less than 100 hours? Racors are an easy fix. Last question, Do I really need to too off the fuel for the winter?

I would replace the fuel filters annually. Turn off the fuel for the winter? It's real easy to shut a few valves so you might as well.

meant to ask, "top off the fuel"

Yeah, it's a good idea so you don't get condensation in the fuel tank.

If your boats sitting round it is also a good idea to use a fuel biocide as a preventative maintenance procedure.

I have seen additives such as those from Diesel Kleen help considerably on boats that seldom move.

That being said, I've managed 10+ yachts at a time, and some come and go, some stay around a long time, some move a lot, some rarely move for about 14 years now.

On boats that I manage that have algae issues, it's always a matter of getting a little water into the fuel. Usually a slightly leaking deck cap or something of that manner. Yachts with aluminum tanks also tend to get algae easier, more so if they're engine room mounted (heat up when running then cool off and condensate as the engine room cools down). Some boats I manage use no additives, sit all of the time, and never get an algae issue. The fiberglass fuel tanks, usually in between the stringers are better insulated and the hull bottom usually is the fuel tank bottom and keeps them at a more stable temperature.

Once you have it, it's REAL hard to get rid of it. Polishing doesn't really work, unless the fuel is so bad you can't burn through it all. Polishing tends to get 95% of it, but if you don't burn up all that old fuel within a month, and then put new fuel with treatment, the algae tends to grow right back.

thanks guys. I had the yard fill it up and treat it. Rather safe than sorry. They are aluminum and are located aft of the engine room and forward of the engine room. $20 in additive is worth the piece of mind. At least the fuel tanks will be full when we spring commission it. We just got the boat and I know it was run from Miami to NYC and back once a year. I believe it sat in both locations and didn't move much. We plan on using it a lot in the summer only. New England summers are short, like 2 1/2 months...we will out every weekend and do two week trips a year.

Well think of it this way, diesel is about as cheap as you're going to find it, so if diesel is a $1 more per gallon by next summer, you made money!